Jump to content
SAU Community

350awkw Gtr = 1/4 Mile?

GTNWET
 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
You say my post was misleading and I say the question posed was ambiguous. Whatever. "A hell of a lot would have to blah blah blah..." It's just not so.

Im no tbeing argumentative...wel not meaning to be:) But if you can come up with examples then i will gladly sit back and start calling all the Vic GTR guys fags for not running low 10s :mrt:

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted
Im no tbeing argumentative...wel not meaning to be:) But if you can come up with examples then i will gladly sit back and start calling all the Vic GTR guys fags for not running low 10s :)

haha. thats abit more like it :)

well i did an 11.3 @122 with 295rwkw on federals with a nismo tripple that was imposible to slip.(need a new diff now lol)

also worth noting was a gearset with decant ratios it has. (1st 90km 2nd 140km 3rd 185km @8k)

so 350 with a good set up should see a very low 11 if not a expencive high 10(stupid rules)

  • 1 month later...
Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

I ran 11.13 @ 128.5 mph (1.7 60ft) the one time I ran my 32 with 307RWKW. Sh*tter Avon tyres, single plate clutch, full weight.

With 350RWKW, I'd expect a 10.7 or 10.8, keeping in mind that you may smash the 'box if you're too brutal.

  • 4 weeks later...
IDO 11S R32 Collaborator

IDO 11S R32

Posted
Posted

I would aim for a mid to low 11s pass, if you get any better then thats a bonus, dont get your hopes up for a 10 sec pass, The Dutton GTR has 400awkw and has great suspension, tyres and gearbox has been done. He ran a best time of 10.2, but thats everything done and that is a race car.

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
I would aim for a mid to low 11s pass, if you get any better then thats a bonus, dont get your hopes up for a 10 sec pass, The Dutton GTR has 400awkw and has great suspension, tyres and gearbox has been done. He ran a best time of 10.2, but thats everything done and that is a race car.

See above for examples of low to mid 10 second passes with the power we're talking about. Also, the "Dutton GTR" you mention is hardly set up fro drag racing.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted

ran 11.0 on the weekend with 350AWKW...but if i knew i only had 350 (i forgot to turn on the boost controller) i would have ran a high 10. As i would have launched and shifted the car a little differently...probably ran more tyre pressure too.

Benm was spot on...low-mid 10's with 400kw

I ran 10.38 at the SAU drag day with 27psi on the 2530's which was 404AWKW. (just for the record)

The Dutton car you speak of runs a PPG dogbox which bring its ET down in the low 10's

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...