Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi gang,

as per: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161511

as some of you may or may not know i am trying to port and get the RB26 PFC working on the rb20 and rb25.

the main issue i can see with the rb25 is that VCT is not supported.

VCT is switched on aroudn 1800rpm and off at 4700rpm by the stock ECU and the RB25 PFC.

i have tried with my 25 PFC turning VCT off at 1900rpm (that is, only have it on for 100rpm) and the car was a pig to drive.

lag city and it felt like it was as flat as a tack to drive around.

so my known working solutions are as follows;

1) use jaycar controller / type of system

this involves a 3rd party device to be built and tested / setup

its manual and would involve some time, each customer would need to buy one and set it up to retain stock VCT control

2) dont do anything and leave as is

this would leave the car boggy / laggy and gutless. can we do something else to make it "normal" without VCT?

can we hard wire the solenoid on or something?

3) required part of the 26 hacked 25 FC is exhaust cam gear

how does this negate not having VCT, i know it replaces the physical cog but does it make it drive the same and take away the boggy/laggy feeling?

how does it achieve this, as far as i can see aftetrmarket exhaust cam gear just lets you dial in forward/backward, does that then negate VCT ?

any suggestions/ideas would be great

i wanted the ported FC to be plug and play, that is a customer buys or gets a 26 PFC

plugs in my custom loom, makes some changes on the hand controller and its ready to go

it idles normally, runs like factory 25 PFC and they can fang around or head to their tuner

if they have to use the jaycar box it requires them (or me) to build the box, set it up, test it etc

and they would have to instlal it onto their loom

my 26 FC is on the way from japan so it shouldnt be long (a few days before i test it)

good news is it looks like rb20 customers should have it easy as theres no VCT needed or other trickery

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167846-request-for-help-no-vct-on-r33-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Paul

I heard that Apexi are working on a replacement chip for R33 Power FC's because the damand is so high so we may see them readily available again in the near future...

I heard that Power FC's are still available for RB25's brand new but are more expensive... If anyone wants one new they can call Turbotechnics on 0249565466 who orders them Directly and are still available just a little more expensive because they are buying these NEC chips from wherever they can and are paying a higher price for them.

The info i get from this guy is allways very reliable but you never know i guess... Maybe the Rb25 PFC is not in such a great shortage after all?? this hype may settle down shortly...

Edited by Guilt-Toy

yeah well doesnt anyone wonder where people are buying the brand new RB25 ecu's and putting them on ebay ?? where are they getting them from?

I dont think someone purchased 2000 of them because they knew this shit was going to go down.

There may be delays on orders because they come from Japan when they are made but they are still being exported.

Hey Paul

I heard that Apexi are working on a replacement chip for R33 Power FC's because the damand is so high so we may see them readily available again in the near future...

I heard that Power FC's are still available for RB25's brand new but are more expensive... If anyone wants one new they can call Turbotechnics on 0249565466 who orders them Directly and are still available just a little more expensive because they are buying these NEC chips from wherever they can and are paying a higher price for them.

The info i get from this guy is allways very reliable but you never know i guess... Maybe the Rb25 PFC is not in such a great shortage after all?? this hype may settle down shortly...

yeah its true, even the AP engineering stuff is available if the customer orders quantity. The gear is all there but due to production costs they will only make stock they are readily selling, they do no want to be producing stocks to sit on shelves. At the moment they are producing to fill orders and until the orders warrant production of significant quantities the "discontiued" ones will stay that way.

Edited by URAS

the exhaust cam gear doesn't replace VCT. VCT is only active on the inlet cam. think of it like an adjustable cam gear with 2 settings (1. response, 2 top end), but it can switch between them. so it gives you the benefit of an adjustable cam gear (again inlet only here) without the compromise. the reason people may say that fitting an exhaust cam gear makes up for no VCT is that they both have a similar affect on performance. but ideally you want BOTH.

it just seems weird that the 25 is a pig with the VCT turned off... you would think there would only be a very small seat-of-the-pants difference... barely noticeable... afterall the 26 seems fine and its usually got another 100-200kgs to lug around... weird

Yeah.....

They got 10 in last week and had 15 on order so they are comming into the country directly from Apexi.

yeah its true, even the AP engineering stuff is available if the customer orders quantity. The gear is all there but due to production costs they will only make stock they are readily selling, they do no want to be producing stocks to sit on shelves. At the moment they are producing to fill orders and until the orders warrant production of significant quantities the "discontiued" ones will stay that way.
hi gang,

as per: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161511

as some of you may or may not know i am trying to port and get the RB26 PFC working on the rb20 and rb25.

the main issue i can see with the rb25 is that VCT is not supported.

VCT is switched on aroudn 1800rpm and off at 4700rpm by the stock ECU and the RB25 PFC.

i have tried with my 25 PFC turning VCT off at 1900rpm (that is, only have it on for 100rpm) and the car was a pig to drive.

lag city and it felt like it was as flat as a tack to drive around.

so my known working solutions are as follows;

1) use jaycar controller / type of system

this involves a 3rd party device to be built and tested / setup

its manual and would involve some time, each customer would need to buy one and set it up to retain stock VCT control

2) dont do anything and leave as is

this would leave the car boggy / laggy and gutless. can we do something else to make it "normal" without VCT?

can we hard wire the solenoid on or something?

3) required part of the 26 hacked 25 FC is exhaust cam gear

how does this negate not having VCT, i know it replaces the physical cog but does it make it drive the same and take away the boggy/laggy feeling?

how does it achieve this, as far as i can see aftetrmarket exhaust cam gear just lets you dial in forward/backward, does that then negate VCT ?

any suggestions/ideas would be great

i wanted the ported FC to be plug and play, that is a customer buys or gets a 26 PFC

plugs in my custom loom, makes some changes on the hand controller and its ready to go

it idles normally, runs like factory 25 PFC and they can fang around or head to their tuner

if they have to use the jaycar box it requires them (or me) to build the box, set it up, test it etc

and they would have to instlal it onto their loom

my 26 FC is on the way from japan so it shouldnt be long (a few days before i test it)

good news is it looks like rb20 customers should have it easy as theres no VCT needed or other trickery

:action-smiley-069:

Paul

GTS-t VSPEC has been running an RB26 D-Jetro PGC on his RB25 over here in WA for quite some time now. He has retained the VCT and also made it adjustable (i.e. rev dependent switch point) by adding a third party switch (i.e. your option 1). I believe the point at which it activates makes significant difference to the power/torque curve.

Drop him a PM for further details :blink:

hey

ok things i know are that the 26 FC will work on the 25 and that we can make VCT work

its just how elegant is the solution for the customer. i wanted it to be plug and play for the end user

so they dont have to fiddle with external boxes etc. like for 1 dude its fine to have a jaycar/external box but for 100+ its a different story

Guilt-Toy your a legend !. Gave turbonetics a call, and they can get them new, like you said, they are using chips they can source and doing them by order in japan only. then sending them upon request. and if you get them thru turbonetics, u can get an australian warranty with them.

(oh yea, Quoted price was $1550. and a 4 week wait.

good work :blink: no rumor at all. problem solved for me. :action-smiley-069:

- CHeers

dale.

Edited by silverbulletR33

paulr33

Do a dyno power run with the VCT turnt on all the way to redline.

Then do a run all the way to redline with it turnt off.

Have a look at the huge difference. Where the two graphs cross, this is your switch over point.

Due to the amount of lag down low, this may well indicate, due to the cam movement, that it wants some more timing (And will most likely be able to be done without inducing ping due to the cam "profile" change)

You may want to leave it turnt off and attempt a change of the tune.

yeah i know about the changeover test point

my question is, can u tune the 25t and get the same results if you just unplugged say the VCT solenoid

that is, standard PowerFC, unplugged stock VCT, stock cams, stock turbo etc

like same midrange, power, response, feeling etc...

cos when i did my testing it drove like a pig

ie: unacceptable

if it can be tuned with the thing completely off, then im not worried at all

If the VCT is OFF when going for top end power, then you'll never get the same response (You've changed the VE characteristics of the engine down low)

So when unplugged you will never get the same low down response, BUT with a decent tune (More fuel/timing) it should see you getting back alot of your response.

When you change cam profiles, it adjusts the timing maps drastically, that is exactly what you've just done.

Most likely, down low, you might be running a touch leaner or so the o2 sensor might say.

Throw it on a dyno, and see what you can tune in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...