Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MBS - This isnt a debate about ECU's. What you think might/might not be better or whatever else.

This is about getting VCT to work with the RB26 PFC.

If you lot are going to continue the ECU debate, go to another forum. We dont need another ECU vs ECU thread thats about as useful as tits on a bull.

Paul - as you said, is it viable.

I would say at thism stage yes. $500 saving is what it could cost to tune the car. So thats value if it can be done cheap.

If not, i'll buy your RB26 PowerFC as i need one lol :(

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my mate gets all his supra parts from here: www.greenline.jp he has already spent about $20k with them and he says its top stuff.

they sell R33 PwrFCs new for a conversion rate of around $1400AUS. i emailed the a couple days ago about buying them in a bulk, not sure how much it can go down by. hopefully aswell the shipping wont cost too much too. ill keep you posted.

ahh looks like paulr33 is canning the rb26 -> rb25 power fc loom thingo - looks like we shoudl organise a group buy if we can maybe we could get the price down to $1200 with enough of us?

hey guys thought i'd add my imput. I would personally run a 3rd party RPM based switch to control the VCT, then it becomes a set and forget affair. Something like a NOS controller, or similar. Gizzmo make a adjustable cam controller which would do the exact same job, basically it will be an on and off switching device that can be set at the right RPm points.

FWIW the Gizzmo device is expensive, so i;'d be looking at jaycar offerings or NOS controllers.

  • 4 months later...

This thread never got updated - I completed it (with help from cubes) and got the RB26 Powerfc working for both the RB25 and RB20.

I even have a video of me driving around with the RB26 one in.

  • 4 weeks later...

A little update again. :)

This modification most definitely needs to have a wideband slapped on the car from the word go as there's a few little issues with the afm curve, afm selection and coolant temp correction. Strangely enough not all cars are equal; some cars have near spot on afr's with a simple tweak of the airflow yet others require fiddling.

The car will appear to drive fine but afr's are really way off mark, definitely not recommended to drive around on for any length of time.

The VCT controller is easy; use a NOS controller as Simon suggested above. The US sell them for dirt cheap. ~$50 for an adjustable nos rpm window controller.

I've looked in to the jaycar solution and its difficult to get working not to mention it has to be slightly customised.

The rpm window controllers than can be had from the US are cheap, compact, already assembled and just work. :D

I've had the 26pfc running in my 32 for some time now; its returning excellent economy ~450km's per tank (50L) but on average 430km's.

No open road driving all local short trip (<30mins) 60-80km/h type. I feel its still got a little more economy in it as I haven't really tweaked the water temp correction which has a reasonable impact on economy for short trip driving.

  • 1 month later...

Hi Cubes , I'm curious to know why the Jaycar simple voltage switch has issues . I guess the question is do you set it to switch from an rpm or an airflow meter signal . I'm thinking if its workable from the MAF's load output voltage you could make it work a bit more intelligently than the std computers engine speed signal - if thats how the std system works .

Cheers A .

Hey Adrian,

The std vct system works directly off RPM and nothing else. It essentially turns on increasing overlap at 1100-1300rpm and then back off at 4700rpm ish reducing overlap to aid top end with that restrictive turbo std scroll.

I do get where your coming from; having an airflow based vct controller could work but it would require a lot of fiddling. ;)

It could result in a of buggering around for what could result in a tune thats never quite right due to the essentially rpm variable vct controller. A lot of coulds in there lol. Without some loss there's would be no gain. ;)

With regards to RPM controllers; I don't feel the Jaycar kit is suitable primarily due to its cost and need for modification when you can buy a controller thats designed for the purpose for $50 or so.

But yeah.. RPM variable vct controller; interesting concept. Would be interesting if there would be any real gains.

How does Ford's inline 6 infinite variable cam controller work? RPM based and or inj. duty/airflow based?

I guess thats one for google of which I currently don't have enough time for. :wave:

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

This "adjustable nos rpm window controller" that you guys are talking about, where the hell do you get it from? Can someone throw me a link or a part number, i had a look on Holley's website for nitrous controllers and it doesn't seem to list it unless it's called something else?

http://www.holley.com/types/Nitrous%20Controllers.asp

I wanna get the VCT running on my car because the Microtech doesn't run it and it seems like a bit of a waste to not get some free low end power. Is someone actually running one of these on their car?

Thanks guys.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...