Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Inlet Manifold And Phenolic Gaskets *results*

STATUS

By STATUS,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)

Has anyone played with this on the 26? i have some nice phenolic gaskets to insulate the inlet plenum and will do a few runs on the dyno and the track and log the results for those who may be interested in this cheap power upgrade. I have always used them on my SR's but they required much more than just the gaskets as the throttle body and aac valve all needed the water passages bypassed aswell, The GTR doesnt.

products_gaskets.jpg

official blurb if you dont know what phenolic gaskets are; http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/product_gasket.htm

Edited by URAS
  • 2 weeks later...
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
given the air speed of WOT into the manifold, I don't think a hell of a lot of heat would transfer off the plenum to the injested air charge...

you would be suprised, hondas get fairly large gains in regards to total power percentages. Dsport did some testing a while back.

in GTR i wont know til sat till i put it on CREATDS dyno, i dont expect much but i expect it will be 90 dollars well spent in reducing inlet charge over a period of time.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
you would be suprised, hondas get fairly large gains in regards to total power percentages. Dsport did some testing a while back.

in GTR i wont know til sat till i put it on CREATDS dyno, i dont expect much but i expect it will be 90 dollars well spent in reducing inlet charge over a period of time.

Although on your average honda, Bar the K-Series and F20C, the Intake manifold sits on the back of the motor, and has none, to sweet f**k all airflow around it. Its kinda getting all the heat of the engine bay thrown at it.

I put a HONDATA gasket on my ITR, and i believe the only difference it made was less available funds on my card, and a few cuts and scratches getting the bitch in there :thumbsup:

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Although on your average honda, Bar the K-Series and F20C, the Intake manifold sits on the back of the motor, and has none, to sweet f**k all airflow around it. Its kinda getting all the heat of the engine bay thrown at it.

I put a HONDATA gasket on my ITR, and i believe the only difference it made was less available funds on my card, and a few cuts and scratches getting the bitch in there :)

did you re-route the other heat sources fron the inlet manifold.... like water etc... i have seen plenty of excellent honda data, but many do not understand the preocesses and only fit the gasket.

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

On the topic of phenolic spacers, when the 5.0 was new to the mustang, one of the popular mods was a phenolic spacer between the upper and lower halves of the intake manifold. I remember seeing test results showing a definate improvement.

James.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
did you re-route the other heat sources fron the inlet manifold.... like water etc... i have seen plenty of excellent honda data, but many do not understand the preocesses and only fit the gasket.

That "mod" is already done on Integra Type R's from factory. The only one you need to re-route is the cold start line that warms up the throttle body. So thats more than likely why the ITR doesnt respond as well as other Hondas.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

heres the latest dyno i will post up a table later comparing the two datalogs of inlet temp and timing.

with the new gaskets inlet temps were reduced by a substantial amount, to the point that the turbo outlet pipes would were so hot they would scald and the plenum was COOL to touch after 21 runs......... if you dont believe me check our the run number on the dyno sheet :P

The cooler charge allowed us to dial in another 3-5 degrees of peak timing throughout the peak torque and top end IGN map areas.

post-34927-1180350300_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
On the topic of phenolic spacers, when the 5.0 was new to the mustang, one of the popular mods was a phenolic spacer between the upper and lower halves of the intake manifold. I remember seeing test results showing a definate improvement.

James.

I believe in this case, the gains were mostly due to the "thick"gasket(up to 5cm thick) increasing plenum volume and reducing flow discrepencies between the cylinders, and or increasing runner length

  • 2 years later...
noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Any advice on actual fitting these gaskets assume they would need some gasket sealant etc.

Whst sorta torque values standard?

also as they are alot thicker than standard any issues with the stud length being too short??

any advice appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...