Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i've had this problem for a while but last night i went for a big drive through the hills and it started to get worse. Basically after a fairly long drive i come up to a 't' intersection and i'm slowing down, when i put the clutch in it keeps stalling, it happened about 10 times.

I've done my cam gears recently but i've set them to zero for my tuner to change so they should just be like stock at the moment?

Any ideas on what it could be would be much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168465-stalling-when-coming-to-a-stop/
Share on other sites

"my car is doing this thing were it makes a huge wooshing sound, then blows flames from the exhaust, then the bonnet blows off, and mysteriously re-generates back on the car, are you able to tell me why?"

"what mods!!" x 100000 posts

"oh sorry, forgot to say that its a mk639 UFO with light speed hyper drive"

TO EVERYONE WANTING TO POST A PROBLEM - LIST YOUR MODS, WE CAN'T READ YOUR MIND AND KNOW WHAT YOUR CAR HAS GOT

Edited by The Mafia

id say afm, when shaun tuned mine we had to lengthen the intake pipe to stop the turbulance stuffing up the afm signal. lookout mafia learnt how to use caps lock and big font in the one go, must be feeling really smart today.

This is going to sound stupid.. bear with me.

I had the same problem, changed the AFM, cleaned AAC valve, reset ECU, checked plugs etc etc nothing worked.

Turns out there was a loose connection with the battery ie not fixed on properly, tightened that and had no more problems. So try that.

i had this prob. and took my car to mercury motorsport and they changes my o2 sensor got the right plugs and checked my timing and now its running wicked good.

i got pod, 600 x 300 x 75 FMIC, cat back zorst, tried cleaning my AFM and it did nothing,

get a good tuner to check it out.

AIF

sorry guys, was in a rush when i posted this. mods are as follows:

rb30det in an R32 (stock rebuild with r32 rb25de head, 5000kms old)

power fc

adj. cam gears set to zero

NO BOV

z32 afm

straight thru 3" exhaust with 1 muffler

xr6 iwg turbo

1000km old o2 sensor

GTR fuel pump

GTR injectors

Also car is making 228rwkws @ 15psi (think this is a little low for the mods i have but anyway)

Hope this helps things, cheers!

My best guess would be that your idle air controller is blocked up with crap. Have a look in the diy/faq section, there is a tutorial on how to clean them out.

Cheers

Josh

will give this a go! Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...