Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

In this time i crazy about suspension between Tein Super Street amd G4 racing..

I know tein is good suspension. but i dont have any idea about g4 racing.

anybody use the g4? and please recommand other compnay as well..

thanks,

Lance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168681-recommand-suspension/
Share on other sites

Mate, 1 piece of advice I'll give you is whatever suspension you choose make sure it's not too hard. A lot of people race out and buy the hardest coil overs and the biggest wheels they can fit and the problem with this is it just plain makes the car dangerous. The back wheels have no give and simply break traction and axle tramp under the pump. They also don't absorb any of the cars inertia during cornering and can cause the car to unsettle over bumps during cornering. Last of course is the ride WILL drive you nuts, far too hard! I've fallen into this trap and will never buy HARD suspension again unless the car was going to be purely a track car. Hope that helps.

I have the SK group but stuff in my car and the only place in Vic that its too soft for is phillip island... so unless your going to be hitting PI often the Bilstein whiteline combo is great!

I have never driven on the Tein super streets or the G4 stuff but I can tell you buying 'adjustable' coilovers is a waste of time... do some more reading on shock technology and handling and you will see what I mean

I have the SK group but stuff in my car and the only place in Vic that its too soft for is phillip island... so unless your going to be hitting PI often the Bilstein whiteline combo is great!

I have never driven on the Tein super streets or the G4 stuff but I can tell you buying 'adjustable' coilovers is a waste of time... do some more reading on shock technology and handling and you will see what I mean

I have the Bilstien setup also however I have slighter stiffer spring rates than the SK GB. Car goes pretty well, just need to learn how to drive it consistantly at DECA :laugh:

my issues is the stock diff now. 1.5 way comming my way soon.

Tein: Great Japan quality. If bought through Fulcrum, they are re valved/sprung for Australian roads.

G4 Racing: Cheaper quality, not sure where they are made. Will not perform as good, in the long run.

Even though the SK gb kit are great, i still prefer my adjustability. I like the thought of adjusting the stiffness for various roads, events, conditions, etc. And the Tein EDFC makes it soooooooooooooooo much easier :D

I have the SK group but stuff in my car and the only place in Vic that its too soft for is phillip island... so unless your going to be hitting PI often the Bilstein whiteline combo is great!

I have never driven on the Tein super streets or the G4 stuff but I can tell you buying 'adjustable' coilovers is a waste of time... do some more reading on shock technology and handling and you will see what I mean

I disagree with the coilover statement, height and dampener adjustment is very useful. Height is good for raising if the cops pin you and dampenr is great for fun/track days and other events.

Lance - What are you looking to get from your car? What will you be using it for?

Mate I was raped by Pettett last week and he was picking on my ride height. Now I know for a fact that it's sitting at 110mm at the pipe (lowest point) but he STILL gave me a hard time about it. The fact I can raise the car for testing is priceless. All you need is one assho|e cop like him and you'd have to get a lot more work done to raise non adjustable suspension. Now I know you'll say "make it legal ride height and you'll have no issues" but we both know that aint the case huh.

All I'm saying is the SK group buy for instance is almost the cost of a set of Tien Super Street (Fulcrum local stuff). I'm about to change my suspension and I know what I'll be choosing.

fair enough then!

yep you have to take the Bilsteins out to reset the height... but I have never been pulled over let alone hassled about ride height... I have mine set pretty high though, otherwise the tires scrub really badly on the rear guards... you should move away from Knox!

Mate I was raped by Pettett last week and he was picking on my ride height. Now I know for a fact that it's sitting at 110mm at the pipe (lowest point) but he STILL gave me a hard time about it. The fact I can raise the car for testing is priceless. All you need is one assho|e cop like him and you'd have to get a lot more work done to raise non adjustable suspension. Now I know you'll say "make it legal ride height and you'll have no issues" but we both know that aint the case huh.

All I'm saying is the SK group buy for instance is almost the cost of a set of Tien Super Street (Fulcrum local stuff). I'm about to change my suspension and I know what I'll be choosing.

I know you've been raped... more than once... :)

lol

Ye i know that, but if you are sitting 110mm, why are you even raising it?

Your legal to begin with!

ive got tiens and they are pretty stiff.. but id rather a stiff ride (yeh i know that sounds gay) over bodyroll anyday

Only thr Jap Spec are stiff.

If you bought them through Fulcrum they would be ALOT better and comfortable. Yet the still have enough dampner ajdustment to make them pretty damn stiff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...