Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEY GUYS

DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THE BOOST SENSOR ON THE R34 GT-T DOES?

I AM HAVING A BOOST PROBLEM THAT OCCURS VERY RANDOMLY BUT OFTENLY WHEN DRIVING HARD. CAR LOSES POWER AND DOES NOT BOOST TO FULL POTENTIAL WHEN THIS OCCURS. IT MAKES A STUTTERY SOUND WHEN HAPPENING.

MY MECHANIC SEEMS TO THINK ITS MY BOOST SENSOR THAT IS FAULTY, BUT I HAVE A FEELING THAT ITS NOT.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY INFO / ADVISE?

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169502-r34-boost-sensor/
Share on other sites

Well, yeah, i realise that, my reply was a bit simplified but i meant id doesn't nothing in terms of engine management etc.

I disconected it cause i have an aftermarket boost gauge and used the original vacuum feed for my boost controller/sensor

Rich and Retard occurs when the Air Flow Meter detects too much volume of air traveling through it and thinks the turbo is possibly overboosting, it than Richens the fuel and retards the timing (this causes it to lose power), essentially a safety feature to try preventing you damaging your car if something goes funny with the wastegate..

Most likely a) you have a turbo back exhaust and the boost is now up at 10/11psi, because you go full throttle it overboosts slightly which could trip R&R..

Get an SAFC or turn your boost down..

OTHERWISE.. it's your coilpacks breaking down at 4,500 rpm like everyone elses, common in R33, not so much in R34.. This can be noticed as you might lose boost and it stutters/missfires than picks up again..

Sewid, you agree?

The GTT NEO engine and engine managment system is different to the R33 so you can't compare them.

Yes the NEO has a "Boost Pressure Sensor" aka map sensor on the back of the engine rocker covers.

Yes it is connected to the engine managment system.

What use this has with regards to fuel and timing functions i don't know if any, it may be either a back up sensor, or used to switch the pollution system purge valves etc (more accurate pollution control) I dunno exactly.

There was however a few threads, where a few GTT owners were fiddling with the outputs from the map sensor to the ecu, trying to run more boost, but you would have to search for those threads. I didn't follow the threads so im unsure what the outcome was...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW )
    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
×
×
  • Create New...