Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've never done a full car install before in my life although i have replaced the head unit and replaced all the speakers bu just used the headunit to power everything, and standard wiring.

It's time for some extra bass.

Not huge amounts but definately more.

I have a small 10inch Pioneer sub i'v had for years collecting dust so may aswell use it.

And some 6x9's in the garage still in there box.

Just bought a wiring kit and a Sony 4 chanel amp.

Finally the question...

How do you get the RCA connectors to feed the signal from the headunit thru to the boot?

Lift some carpet or some other means?

I'm thinking it's the carpet and if it is, can you tell me the do's and don't about it, so i can get it all back in place so it doesn't look like some hack has ripped it all up and couldn't get it back quite right :P

Can someone shed some light on that for me

..thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169916-noob-car-install-question/
Share on other sites

dos and don'ts

don't put rcas near power (not so much of an issue with our cars since the batt is in the boot). it will cause noise.

The best place to run the rcas is down the side (under the skyline panel, then along the backseat, then there are holes under the back seat. IT's a pain to pull the seats out, but hey, you only have to do it once.

hope that helps. Anymore qs, feel free to ask.

I'm crazily busy with uni atm (just coming up to exams), otherwise i'd be able to give you a hand :thumbsup:

yeah, run it tp the side and under the door sil, through the seat and into the boot... you might want to think about taking out that sound deadener behind the seat too while your at it... especially if you only have a 10'

its bit of a bitch job, but its the best way to do it... have fun :thumbsup:

I just meant it was a bitch in the sense that it scratches the side trims when you take the seat out. Yes i'm anal :thumbsup:

You hsould be right mate :D

Also, face the sub box backwards. Easiest (not necessarily best looking place to moun tthe sub is just on the side of the box.

yeah, run it tp the side and under the door sil, through the seat and into the boot... you might want to think about taking out that sound deadener behind the seat too while your at it... especially if you only have a 10'

its bit of a bitch job, but its the best way to do it... have fun :P

I didnt think removing the deadener was a good idea... correct me if im wrong though...

When you install speakers in the doors, its a good idea to spend money installing lots of sound deadening, including dynaxorb rubber sound absorbers behind the drivers. These give the sound more bass!

And i thought it'd be the same with the boot - ive seen installs with dynamat installed on the inside of the boot lining, and the boot panels???

not when the mat is BETWEEN YOU AND THE SUB... behind = good

come on man... use your brain... you already have some metal, and a seat covering your sub from your ears, do you really want a rubber and fibre mat there too?

Using my brain, i thought high acoustic frequencies are directional, which is why tweeters are pointed at your ears. However low frequncies propegate through structures, hence why a sub can be in your boot and you have no problems "feeling" the vibration.

I'd rather have good sound deadening on my rear seat (base and back) to block out road noise and keep the cabin as quiet as possible, which i wouldnt think would stop the bass coming through from a sub...

Why do some custom installs have dynamat all around their boot? I dont think it is stopping the bass from coming out!

But correct me if i'm wrong....!

Edited by Trav33

no your pretty much right... but its still muffled...

normally the seat and metal construct is enough to stop any road noise coming through... it works for me...

i saw the rubber mat as a waste of my time... and rubber absorbs sound quite well, at any frequency...

its unnecessary though... wont make a massive difference, but will make a little difference and you shed some weight by taking it out :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...