Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Bout to get a fmic for my 34 GT-t and basicly going through all the options that are on the market these days. But i was just wondering if anyone has used a ARC intercooler kit before and what did you think of it. I see alot of the ARC kits on some pretty high performance skylines but i cant find much info on them at all. Does anyone know where you can buy these kits and how they rack up against the likes of HKS, Blitz and Trust???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169952-arc-intercoolers/
Share on other sites

While other manufacturers are turning to China to source their cores i'm pretty sure ARC intercoolers are still made by those trained in the arts of the samurai who only stop meditating to eat and forge intercooler cores once per year in the deepest darkest regions of Kyoto the true capital of Edo Japan.

While other manufacturers are turning to China to source their cores i'm pretty sure ARC intercoolers are still made by those trained in the arts of the samurai who only stop meditating to eat and forge intercooler cores once per year in the deepest darkest regions of Kyoto the true capital of Edo Japan.

i actually prefer intercoolers forged by warriors descended from the greatest of the men who fought during the meiji restoration period in post edo japan.

imo you will find no finer intercooler cores than ARC. for 3 main reasons: They have fluted inlets (many others do not), they allow great flow through the core so your radiator still gets airflow, and they are very light (massively important given their position in the car).

like ARC says: "the latest surroundings required by the times. ARC advances it with own sense and technology. Presenting extrodinary power to unknown car life" that should explain everything nicely.

said by the great ARC man himself.... "i do not care for tight asses (rough translation :/ ).... i build and offer the best product... i am not in the business of manufacturing cheap rubbish" "Do you see cheap intercoolers on super lap cars?.... no you see mine"

Edited by URAS
said by the great ARC man himself.... "i do not care for tight asses (rough translation :/ ).... i build and offer the best product... i am not in the business of manufacturing cheap rubbish" "Do you see cheap intercoolers on super lap cars?.... no you see mine"

so true

although i dont mind the hybrid kits, half the price and will do the job for someone that isnt chasing over 500rwhp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...