Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Without chasing too much horsepower (read 220-230rwkw), what are your opinions about intercooler sizing? I've read lots about this but all with reference to 600x300x?? size coolers. From what i'm hearing, the recommended thickness is 67 or 76 or something, which i'm told is good for that sort of power while over 100 in width is too laggy.

Reason I'm prompting this question is would a front mount of proportions such as 470x260x65 be sufficient for these power aims? Is it worth upgrading stock cooler for something this small or is it only beneficial to go to the larger 600x300 core?

Opinions would be appreciated.

Cheers:confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17068-smaller-fmic-than-600x300/
Share on other sites

Well I'm using a VR4 cooler which is

450 x 210 x 70, and it is good for up to 400HP = about 298 kw.

But then again, these VR4 coolers have proven to flow extremely well. I dont have figures (couldn't find any), but everything I read about these coolers was positive.

I'm guessing the cooler you want should be sufficient, but it all depends on your long term goals. If you will be chasing more power in the near future, then go the bigger. If your goal is 230rwkw, then the smaller one would be better.

As a general rule, I can't see the point of the 300 high cooler as half of it is hidden behing the bumper doing nothing. I have a GTR style front on my gtst and the front opening is only about 220mm high and 700 or so wide, so I can't see the point of going bigger in height unless you cut the bar. I was thinking of getting a custom core made to fit this height or I have also been looking at the VR4 cooler as they seem to be reasonably priced in the second hand places. It good to get a power rating on the VR4 cooler, thanks Zahos. Are you happy yours? The flow rating suits my future plans, is it efficient in dissapating heat? Is there much pressure drop?

Most people buy the 600x300x75 because most intercoolers are that size off the shelf, if you want a custom size it will cost you more. Regardless whether or not your entire intercooler is actually exposed to direct airflow, remember that it is also a heatsink in that it soaks the heat out of the air, the outside airflow cools the intercooler down. So a heavy intercooler will work better than a lighter intercooler of the same dimensions because it's greater mass can absorb more heat, but to be honest the average street car won't get it's intercooler that hot to begin with unless it's tiny, like the stockie.

After a really hard run running 15 psi through the hills my bar and plate on one side feels hot to touch while the other side is cold.

I had a bar and plate 450 x 300 x 87.5 FMIC fitted that increased lag by 100rpm if that. It will handle up to 580hp where there is a 1.5psi pressure drop. I wanted something that was hidden behind the standard front bar yet still have the ability to make 500 od HP.

In australian weather if you want to give it a heap in the heat a bar and plate is the way to go. They do have a little more pressure drop however as they cool the air better but on a street car the difference isn't noticible.

I'll grab a pic and show how it fits.

I've got the trust r-spl fmic its 600x244x76 as you can see from my avatar it fills out the hole we cut in the stock front bar pretty well (i'm searching for a new front bar... 400r possibly). This kit should be good for at least 450-500hp @ flywheel, by the time I do my ecu+turbo I expect to be around the 330-350hp @ wheels mark. I'll probably stop there, not worth pouring more money into the car, just buy a GTR :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...