Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is maybe an interesting one.. :sorcerer:

What is the formula for calculating the weight for the volume of air contained in say an 'average' 17"x 8" rim with say an 255/35R17 tyre compressed at 28psi?

Anybody?

ok, we got pV = nRT

where

p is the absolute pressure [Pa],

V is the volume [m3] of the vessel containing n\, moles of gas,

n is the amount of substance of gas [mol],

R is the gas constant [8.314 472 m3·Pa·K−1·mol−1],

T is the temperature in kelvin [K].

Now to work it out.. sau is my 'paper'

1psi = 6,894.76 pascals

p = 193,053.28 Pa @ 28psi

T = 298.15K @25degC

TBC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170902-what-is-the-weight-of-air-in-a-tyre/
Share on other sites

ah crud this brings painful memories of Foundation Chemistry in Uni >.<

If i studied more for that subject i could have helped you haha.

All i can tell you is;

Oxygen Standard atomic weight: 15.9994(3) g·mol−1 (grams/mol)

I think you have all the values now, just use teh formula?

Hey, to use that formula, you need your pressure to be in kPa. Not just Pa. And V needs to be in litres.

Cheers,

Adam

Year 12 Chemistry exam in two weeks time :thumbsup:

Edited by adam-__-

I reckon you could be on the mark, I still haven't got around to working it out properly, but I'm figuring it's not too much..

as air in atmosphere = 14.5psi.. .air in tyre = 28psi = 1.93 ratio x some volume equations of air in a tyre and there you go.

Just curious as to what a rim with a tyre and air weighs, compared to a bare rim weight. Silly I know.

OK yeah, it's PV = nRT.

If you use:

P = Kpa

then V = L

if you use:

P = pa

then V = cubic metres (1000L)

anyway....now that we can all sleep.......

I got 164 grams for a 235/45/17.

Assuming that "air" is 70% nitrogen and 30% oxygen.

So 1 mole of air = 28 x 0.7 + 32 x 0.3 = 29.2 g/mol

And I got the volume as 46L, at 300 kelvin and 3 atmospheres. Or ~30psi (relative)

So that gave me number of moles, n = (304 Kpa x 46L)/(8.314 x 300) = 5.6 moles.

then 5.6 moles x 29.2 g/mole = 163.5 grams

I was going to have a go at you about 30 psi being closer to 2 atmospheres, but then i remembered that 30psi tyre pressure is compared to atmospheric pressure (already 14.7psi), so yeah approx 30psi(gauge) would be about 3 atmosphere.

What I'm curious about though, is how did you calculate the volume of air?

I was going to have a go at you about 30 psi being closer to 2 atmospheres, but then i remembered that 30psi tyre pressure is compared to atmospheric pressure (already 14.7psi), so yeah approx 30psi(gauge) would be about 3 atmosphere.

What I'm curious about though, is how did you calculate the volume of air?

The way I did it was, I got the area of the entire front of tyre and wheel (side facing the road), subtracted area of rims, multiplied the area calculated by width of tyre and then convert cm^3 into litres.

Hope that made sense. :)

Cheers,

Adam

The way I did it was, I got the area of the entire front of tyre and wheel (side facing the road), subtracted area of rims, multiplied the area calculated by width of tyre and then convert cm^3 into litres.

Hope that made sense. :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Adam

Easy way...... pop wheel with deflated tyre on bathroom scales, note reading

inflate tyre to desired pressure, place on scales, note reading

Subtract ist reading from 2nd

I didn't do chemistry :rolleyes:

God I hate chemistry.

Anyway, density of air at, say atmospheric pressure & 50 degrees C is 1.09kg/m3.

So three bar will obvisouly be three times this.

Work out your tyre volume & you have an answer.

By the way the wheel and tyre will be on the heavier side of 20kg....

Easy way...... pop wheel with deflated tyre on bathroom scales, note reading

inflate tyre to desired pressure, place on scales, note reading

Subtract ist reading from 2nd

I didn't do chemistry :)

Close, but no cigar. The "deflated" tyre will still contain air at atmospheric pressure. The correct way of doing it is:

1/ Weigh tyre.

2/ Weigh wheel.

3/ Add 1 and 2 to get weight of tyre and wheel combo.

4/ Fit tyre to wheel. Inflate tyre to desired pressure. Weigh.

5/ Subtract 4 from 3 to get weight of air in tyre.

5/ Smoke cigar. Get lung cancer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...