Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday all,

im new to sau forums and just would like to say hi,

im also planning modifying my 1997 s2 R33 gts-t into an all wheel drive (taking r33 gtr bits and putting it into mine)

just wanting to know, is it possible? if so, what major parts are needed?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/
Share on other sites

in short, new front chasis rails, new cross member, and a lot of panel work making it all fit

plus the different motor to accomodate the 4wd sump, there are differences between RWD and AWD motors, plus a mountain of other crap to do

can be done, but it won't be cheap

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3168871
Share on other sites

in short, new front chasis rails, new cross member, and a lot of panel work making it all fit

plus the different motor to accomodate the 4wd sump, there are differences between RWD and AWD motors, plus a mountain of other crap to do

can be done, but it won't be cheap

cheers, thats what i wanted to know... hrm, mite just look at flaring rear guards and putting in some massive rims and tyres so i can get traction... currently, when i put my foot down, i can still spin wheels in 3rd and its making drag times suffer...

any ideas for increased rear traction? softer rear springs? wider rubber?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3169301
Share on other sites

cheers, thats what i wanted to know... hrm, mite just look at flaring rear guards and putting in some massive rims and tyres so i can get traction... currently, when i put my foot down, i can still spin wheels in 3rd and its making drag times suffer...

any ideas for increased rear traction? softer rear springs? wider rubber?

how much power do you have?

i've got 350rwhp +, with 235 on the rear, if i launch it hard i 2issue with traction in 1st but once into 2nd she just goes!

ohh i've also got a few suspension bits and a good wheel alignment setup (only little camber on the rear).

if ur having issue maybe look at buying a good rubber. also what conidtion is ur lsd in?

edit: much easier way to fix your traction problem sell up buy a gtr lol ;p

Cheers Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3169640
Share on other sites

how much power do you have?

i've got 350rwhp +, with 235 on the rear, if i launch it hard i 2issue with traction in 1st but once into 2nd she just goes!

ohh i've also got a few suspension bits and a good wheel alignment setup (only little camber on the rear).

if ur having issue maybe look at buying a good rubber. also what conidtion is ur lsd in?

edit: much easier way to fix your traction problem sell up buy a gtr lol ;p

Cheers Michael

i got 371hp at rears with 255 R comp semi slicks (super soft rubber)

whole car is in mint contition. (lsd included)

ive got kyb shocks with HKS springs which arent too hard... i was told that to increase the rear weight transfer during launch to put the stockies back in at the rear..... mite work but a pain in the butt to do everytime i wanna boot it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3170279
Share on other sites

I think he means this

https://www.whiteline.com.au/store/default.asp?part=KCA349

you can install em yourself with a tourque wrench and crowbar but be careful not to lose a finger.

Basically adjustable/replaceable for different types of driving, controls back end. more squat less squat etc etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3178281
Share on other sites

These work very well, i have a set in my car and it is set for traction. One of the best and cheapest mods i have done. Also if your car is lowered and the camber on the back is out, try looking for some adjustable upper control arms. These will correct the camber issues and get you more tyre contact with the road.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3178321
Share on other sites

i shall investigate this further, they sound like a good idea, more squat is deffinatly required. my rear tyres are 0 camber and fronts at -1 (little better handling).

cheers

These work very well, i have a set in my car and it is set for traction. One of the best and cheapest mods i have done. Also if your car is lowered and the camber on the back is out, try looking for some adjustable upper control arms. These will correct the camber issues and get you more tyre contact with the road.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3179374
Share on other sites

I heard it would be easier to make a GTS-4 into a GTR spec than it is to make a GTS-T GTR spec...

My goal is to one-day make a four door, manual AWD Skyline with an RB30DETT... Big money I know, but that is my dream....

All your engine mounts and a great many other things are different between GTS-T, GTS-4 and GTR, but the fact that GTS-4 already has the ATTESSA AWD system makes the conversion a shit-load easier to accomplish...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171990-gtst-into-awd/#findComment-3181134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...