Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my rebuild is on the way.

if anyone remember's i blew my little two litre engine at the phillip island sprints not too long ago

turned out that my head gasket blew and filled the cylinder with water then BANG!!!

too much boost... car was pulling 238.8rwkw with low compression.

so ive finnaly got my mechanic to start the rebuild... ha ha with a few extra goodies...

i chose to re build the 20 because there is too much legal issues with change overs to the 25 or the 30

im happy with the power i had any how..

here's my mods

3 inch turbo back exhause with hi flow cat

gt30 450hp turbo

fmic

greddy boost controller

660cc denso injectors

high mount exhaust manifold

wolf 3d version 5 computer

k and n pod filter

new stuff im getting are as follows:

rebuliding with forged pistons

shot pinned conrods

plenum

cam

hi flowing the head

clutch

oil catch can

just wanted to know everyones opinions

is there anything else i should do while shes open???

what power do you reckon ill make???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172145-my-car-will-be-back-soon/
Share on other sites

i chose to re build the 20 because there is too much legal issues with change overs to the 25 or the 30

Who told you that mate?

There would be less legal issues (as paul has alluded too) because sticking with a high mount is like painting a dogs balls bright orange :sorcerer:

Good luck with it either way :)

If you want advice on legalities or your concerns, shoot me a PM :P

I tend to agree with Ash and Paul.

Not too hard to fit an rb25 or rb26 with std ecu, get an engineer's certificate and epa approval, then fit the usual mods.

As previously stated; a high mount is probably the worst option, with regards to legality.

sorry boyz but i checked it all out to make the gts-t comply with the engineersyou need to change heaps of shit may as well go buy the gtr.

high mount i agree is a magnent buthow easy is it to change?

we all went through this before i started

if you guys read the post i wanna know what power you think she will make and if i should do anything else while shes open???

no mumbo jumbo crap about legal shit its been discussed in like 75% of all posts.

What cams and what does high flowing the head mean? Cleaned up ports, match porting, modified combustion chambers???

Depends on what pistons you are running, and whether you are usign good rod bolts etc, but i would say the engine on paper should be strong for 19psi and 250rwkws all day at 7,800rpm :D

yeah i reckon so too but my guess is ill put out around the 280rwkw mark on full boost maybe 22 23 psi only because my last engine was screwed with low compression thats why it wasnt makin power in the first place.

we'll see anyway but id be happy with 260kw all day long at 18 19 psi

the plenum will shorten the intercooler piping hi flowing/porting the head will allow more air flow in. im using the best parts in my engine ive left it to my mechanic on what to get but he said it will put out good power and be real strong. hes also deciding on the cam to bring spool up a little lower

depends if the plenum is shit or not.. u dont want a 25 cause of cop trouble but you highmount your turbs? i guarantee you the popo wouldnt be able to tell the difference between my 25 and a 20.. unless pettit busted my nuts.

i didnt want a 25 not because of cop trouble but because it would have cost soo much to get the engineers for it and i dont have all the stock parts of a 25 to change it back once its modded and i would have put my high mount/same turbo ect ect on the 25 anyway

thing is if i got epaed on the 25 with no engineers id be screwed completely

the way i have it now is i have all stock 20 parts if i get done i change it back cost is a little less.

to get an engineers on a 25 you need to do breaks gear box ect basically need to make the 32 up with all 33 parts.. well thats what the engineer told me to get it to pass

too much stuffin around rebuild for the 20 was cheaper anyway and i have more money to spend on performance parts.

cant wait to get my baby back on the road.

its gonna be a pretty tuff20 actually is that #plate taken?? sounds good

anyway it will turn heads i bet i pull 260 270 rwkw easy

we will see ill take bets if you's want $$$ put money down winner takes all

my bet is 260 @ 18psi

280 @ 22psi

Just a stab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...