Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I have a '96 gts-t, which hs just started playing up tonight. When on idle it will sometimes 'hunt' usually upwards the sometime splutter and die this is only occuring when i let the car idle. Driving around it's fine until I come to a set of traffic lights. Car has had no mods for the last two weeks, so its nothing I have done.

I suspect its a fuel filter or pump.

I pulled into the servo to top up with fuel just incase I was running too low, and I noticed the fuel filler neck looked odd. Is is possible for someone to post a pic of their fuel filler, I have a nasty feeling the filler has fallen into the tank and caould be causing the problem. But 'm not sure, is it even possible?

Can someone with a 33 please help me out, and post up a pic.

Thanks

Nick...

Edited by stolen_s15

Thanks for the help guys, i'm pretty sure the brass bits were there before. It looked odd when i put fuel in, but i wasn't sure. When I fish the little f_ck3r out will i need to glue it back in or anything, or should it just clip in?

Also has anyone ever heard of this before? Or is it a new one for the skyline medical journals?

Looks like your going to have to do battle with the big plastic nut on the top of the fuel tank to get the bits out. May the force be with you, and failing that a nice strong lump of wood and a big old hammer.

Ok, compliance pisses me off. They stretch your fuel filler neck to fit that spastic brass thing in. This means that your petrol cap won't seal properly against the filler neck anymore without it. Downright pisses me off, because those stupid restrictors always come lose after time.

If mine ever comes lose, i'm going to source a filler neck which hasn't been 'complianced' and replace it.

Thanks for the help guys, i'm pretty sure the brass bits were there before. It looked odd when i put fuel in, but i wasn't sure. When I fish the little f_ck3r out will i need to glue it back in or anything, or should it just clip in?

Also has anyone ever heard of this before? Or is it a new one for the skyline medical journals?

leave it out... its the first compliance thing i remove on all my cars.... im lazy and hate having the unleaded restrictor in there especially when filling up at the airport :)

leave it out... its the first compliance thing i remove on all my cars.... im lazy and hate having the unleaded restrictor in there especially when filling up at the airport :)

So does the filler cap not create a proper seal then? Wouldnt you get fuel splashing out when going around corners??

I had an issue where my filler wasnt sealed properly, and it spills fuel all over the track when i'm cornering hard..

It won't seal. Your tank cap seals against the filler restrictor - correct? yes

Therefore, the restrictor's cap opening is the same size as the original - yes.

I know because I watched the pricks comply my car. They used this air tool that expands the opening. They use a little bit of that squishy metal stuff. the metal glue that you squish in your hand until it becomes warm, then it sticks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...