Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Couldn't find anything about the G-Tech performance meter on this forum.

My question is, do these performance meters live up to the hype?

I'd really like the opinions of people who have one and have compared things actual power, 1/4 times and torque to the G-tech values, rather than 'I have a mate who has one of these and says...

Here is two different models I'm considering buying:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/G-TECH-GTECH-PRO-SS...bayphotohosting

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/G-TECH-PRO-RR-ONBOA...1QQcmdZViewItem

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173102-g-tech-performance-meter/
Share on other sites

the g-tech i have is a little older then those and not as many features. they are a very good indication but not 100% accurate. also not recommended for the street as there is very high speeds involved when dong a 1/4 mile pass :D

isn't that what the strip's for?

Yeah, I meant just more for launches and stuff. I've got a 110km/h road near me that sees very little use, so I can accelerate up to 110, which is good but I've got no way of monitoring performance. The closest drag strip to me is an hour and a half away so I don't get that many occasions to get down there. I'm not looking to piss people off with idiotic story's just trying to determine if the g-tech units are worth the money.

the g-tech i have is a little older then those and not as many features. they are a very good indication but not 100% accurate. also not recommended for the street as there is very high speeds involved when dong a 1/4 mile pass :D

Cheers for your response, do they actually give a good indication of HP?

Ive got the last model,

Handy little unit, very consistant and i think its supposed to be accurate to 1/10th of a second or something.

Regardless of its accuracy compared to the track, its good to compare results between mods.

Take it for what it is...a good little performance indicator, but its not the be all and end all.

There are a total of four different units.

The cheap ones you see on EBay are the oldest.

The RR & SS models are the most recent.

I have an RR. In short for the money they are very, very good. They can accurately give you a quarter mile time & at the same time via the downloads allow you to see (in the comfort of your lounge room) which rpm launches worked best. When used on the circuit they can allow you to pinpoint the effectiveness of different modifications you may have made to your car. I would thouroughly recommned them if you want to dip your toes into the cheaper end of the data logging world.

Oh and don't bother buying the old, cheap ones. They are nowhere near as good.

Edited by djr81

I've got one of the new G-Tech SS' and its quite good. I find it reasonably accurate (G-Tech time vs stopwatch time), but I mainly use it to measure lateral G's. ;)

I'm up to 1.23G's on 17" RT215s, and 1.29Gs on 18" D02G's.

Thanks for the last few responses, very informative. I've decided to import a ss unit directly from G-Tech.

To be honest for the extra coin I would recommend the RR.

You can log & export data & then use it how ever you like. The attached image shows a gain in both balance & lateral grip. Obviously the circuit is anticlockwise.

post-5134-1182212866_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81
  • 6 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I'm also interested in picking up one of these...but not for timing or drag info, more so, i'm after one to log information pre and post modification, so i can test certain equipment and see if it makes any sort of a gain/difference without having to 'feel' for it. Sometimes one may be overcome by the money they've spent on an modification, that they believe that it really DOES make a difference, when it doesn't...is this performance measuring tool accurate in terms of, Power and Acceleration?

Cheers,

Cartz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...