Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone, bought my alarm system today, im gona install it my self, i need some help thou on finding the right wires on my r33 gtst series 2, and the alarm system is a viper 480xv, should be awsome once its installed, i would have been able to do it fine on my mazda 626, but i dont know much about the wireing in my skyline yet, if anyone can help it would be greatly apreciated, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173163-viper-480xv-installation/
Share on other sites

hey everyone, bought my alarm system today, im gona install it my self, i need some help thou on finding the right wires on my r33 gtst series 2, and the alarm system is a viper 480xv, should be awsome once its installed, i would have been able to do it fine on my mazda 626, but i dont know much about the wireing in my skyline yet, if anyone can help it would be greatly apreciated, cheers.

What wires are you looking for? They are under the dash :D

autobarn hoppers crossing sold it to me, which is in melbourne, im geussing from responses they shouldnt have? lol, and yeh the wires under the dash, just after a rough idea of where to look for the wires ill need to install it, and as far as i know the ecu is in the boot? near the battery? im still learning the skyline way

Edited by dyefuker

I dont think there is a problem with Autobarn selling you the viper alarm, they are a nationwide retailer of viper products and should warranty the product itself - not the installation though, if you do it yourself. If you went for a cheap import off ebay, you wouldnt have any warranty.

Viper is one of the most difficult alarms to fit.

Dont worry about the wiring in ur car, worry about setting up that alarm.

Even a professional who does these day in day out cant do one properly in a day.

But yeah go ahead man im sure the wiring diagrams on the net, will help you understand the installation manual which requires a pilots, engineering and language degree to understand :domokun:.

Yeah the one in boot is for 4 wheel steering.

The one you are looking for is behind passenger kick panel.

If you do a search for ECU pinout on the net, you should be able to find the wires you are looking for.

Just out of curiousity how much did autobarn quote to fit it?

It may be worth it for the customer suport they will give you if it is difficult to set up.

Good luck

autobarn hoppers crossing sold it to me, which is in melbourne, im geussing from responses they shouldnt have? lol, and yeh the wires under the dash, just after a rough idea of where to look for the wires ill need to install it, and as far as i know the ecu is in the boot? near the battery? im still learning the skyline way

not really. those have are an insurance rated alarm and they have to be fitted a certain way to be compliant.

by rights they should have fitted it.

I was also looking for an ebay link as this is a LOCAL product and I was going to nail a shop for it if it did come off ebay- it didn't.

if you have the unit handy look closely - the wires are VERY long for a reason thats all I'll say.

cheers for all the advice, ah lol i thought the ecu was in the boot, all makes sence now, and yeh i can inderstand y i has 2 be installed professionaly, after looking into it i prob will get it done professionaly, i just dont really trust autobarn with my car, its very clean, no rattles or vibrations and with my last car they installed an alarm in i had a rattle in my dash i could never fix or find, i payed 715 for the viper alarm, they quoted i think it was 950 installed. if i was goin to get it professionaly installed id want someone who would do it on the spot, so i could make sure nothing in my cars gona get damaged. if anyone knows an onsite installer in melbourne id love the info, cheers.

would have a chat to stylyn in boronia myself. speak to adam. on site guys could be good or a hack - you really do not know. stylyn I know do good work- part of the reason I refer to them. they do not break things and last I time I was in there he had a E class benz sitting in the shop.

as for price - not bad though I would also look at the GSM pager/tracking option as well. GSX560 (its a DEI product also.) is the part number - autobarn will list it but probably not have it on hand. I have info on it and I'll get it on the shop site shortly when I get a sec.

I dont trust Autobarn!

I was there today, in a queue, and was listening to one of the guys ringing a customer on the phone. Sounded like he had just installed central locking, and it worked most of the time, but sometimes the doors wouldnt work, not much he could do about it.

Then he asked if the drivers door activated the light before - because it wasnt working now (ie the alarm wouldnt work if someone opened that door!). And then.......

He said 'so that cd player on the seat, was that the one we were meant to install?' and i could hear the customer saying no, and how they were just meant to be installing speakers. From what i heard, i'd never the dorks that worked in that particular store.

lolz another one who dosnt trust them, i dont mind them as a store, but wouldnt ever have them install something in my car, im gona have a crack at installing it this weekend so ill post as 2 how i go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...