Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people,

Before you abuse me I have done a search for this and couldn’t find anything.

I am going to buy the Greddy Profec B Spec II ebc for my R34 GTT. Few questions:

1. Where have people positioned the actual device in the R34 cabin?

2. Is it handy in the spot that it is installed in or would you install it somewhere else if you were to do it again?

I have an empty DIN under my stereo but not sure how it would fit/look there as the device is much smaller than DIN size.

Ps. Any tips/warning about the installation of this ebc in a R34 GTT?

Any helpful advice would be much appreciated.

:domokun:

What i did, i know its a 33 but same same...

I attached it to a panel that you call pull out.....drilled 2 holes and black cable tied it there.....prob not the most attractive method but still looks good and does the job...

What i did, i know its a 33 but same same...

I attached it to a panel that you call pull out.....drilled 2 holes and black cable tied it there.....prob not the most attractive method but still looks good and does the job...

sounds like a plan.

I assume you mean the empty DIN panel?

Also is it a pain to switch from high boost to low boost on the fly or is it just 1 button and that it?

Under the dash next to my left knee.Never hit it.And in a handy spot.Not that i touch it anymore,always in hi boost mode :domokun:

I thought about that as well but Im pretty tall with long legs so might get in the way at times. :wave:

well mines on the right just above the boonet latch.....im also tall and am yet to hit it....

Greddy profec II is a simple one button push to switch between hi and low....

na i hate it there as well. i want my car to look pretty much stock/stealth not to atract unwanted attention from the boys in blue.

is your feed hose istalled before the intercooler or after? any problems with the setup?

Well, when I finally get around to having my PFC & Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost controller installed, I'm gonna have the controller put into the coin slot on the right hand side, obviously the back section would have to be cut out.

besides, i put my coins in the ash tray in the centre console anyway, holds more coins & easier to access :D

Under the dash next to my left knee.Never hit it.And in a handy spot.Not that i touch it anymore,always in hi boost mode :yes:

that's where my SAFC 1 is and its about the same size.

great spot for it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...