Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there

im almost finished my rb20det into my 180sx conversion

just wondering is it still possible to use my car with stock ecu after i change the turbo to a t04e or do i need to buy a EMS?

Mod my car have are:

Trust FMIC

3" turbo Back exhaust

t04e (going to run 10-12psi) Turbine .63 Comp .60 (too Big? Aiming for 220-250rwkw?)

Os Giken Adjustable Cam Gears

walbro 341

Should i get a rising rate Fuel Pressure reg?

Will my car run like a sack of *poo*

or will it have basically small to no Change on how it will run?

Cheers Fellas

William

Edited by XtremeChief
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173635-rb20-turbo-to-t3t4-t04e/
Share on other sites

you wil have lag, lag, lag.

you will need a retune 100%. just have your stock ecu remapped :D

i dont mind lag lol

but....

will my car be very much driveable still as i wont have enough moeny for remap or ecu before end of this month and i wanna get it mod plated and on road before july 1st lol

sigh...

Do yourself a favour and have a look in the rb20 sticky thread at the top of the forced induction forum and see what turbos work on an rb20 for what you want to do.

then do a search for t04e and see what people think of them.

Then decide if you still want to install it.

car will run fineish under 5,000rpm i.e before you hit boost

if you want to putt it round to the tuners it should be fine just keep it off boost and make sure you still have stock fuel pressure on the reg

and not way under or something stupid

ps t04e will suck the wang if your only gonna be running 10-12psi you must have low power hopes i.e under or around 200rwkw

why not just go a vg30 turbo or a rb25 they will be much nicer to drive and still make or get close to the power you want

Forgot to mention turbo has Turbine .63 and Comp .60

Should of done some research but impulse bought :action-smiley-069: but can anyone see any Pro's to this turbo on a rb20det and what would cons be?

sell that piece of crap turbo and buy something else, put a stock one back on and save your money for something thats actually good.

Buy a sliding hiflow, you can't get cheaper. It bolts on and unlike the turbo you have it has an actual power curve.

Edited by rev210

i have a similar turbo on my rb20 silvia...

specs are:

50 a/r compressor

.63 a/r turbine

.57 trim

still running on the standard computer and its running REALLY rich...

its not pinging and not detonating... but it sure as hell needs a tune..

i have no boost before 4000rpm... but then it pulls (sideways) until redline...

i would strongly recommend getting a tune sooner than later... no point running it without a tune...

The first RB20 i remember being worth is salt on SAU was CLint32 back in about 2002. He ran a HKS TO4E kit that was released for the RB20. He made good power, ran 12s, though i dont know exactly how responsive it was. But provided its an RB20 kit then you could do far worse. Hell grab the kit, run it for a whiel then update to a newer turbo, the manifold and wastegate alone are worth buying the kit for

IMO the only "T3/T04E" - actually TA34 in Garrett speak worth having is one called a TA34-1 , do a search . Is supposed to work reasonably well on an RB20 . T3 flanged , .58 turbine housing and I think a 37 or 40 trim T04E compressor .

Hmm couldn't find much on my quick look. I'd shoot for a 50-trim T3/T04E with .48a/r turbine housing. They're pretty reasonable spool wise for a T3/T4E and are capable of some good power. Not to mention cheap:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=TBN

Hmm couldn't find much on my quick look. I'd shoot for a 50-trim T3/T04E with .48a/r turbine housing. They're pretty reasonable spool wise for a T3/T4E and are capable of some good power. Not to mention cheap:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=TBN

thats for a externally gated

though aint it?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=19707

Thats a garrett factory fitted T3/T04E on a GTSR. They can work ok, for an old school turbo, if the combination is right. Thers a million types of T3/T4 so its hard to know what will happen untill you throw it on.

It is a .60 TO4 compressor housing and the exhaust I beleive is 0.63, same size as whats on a VLT I beleive. No information on trims.

Edited by FATGTS-R

The one I mean uses a 40 trim T04E compressor and 50 A/R T04E compressor housing . The turbine housing is integral gate , 58 A/R and V band outlet .

The stumbling block is using large trim T04E compressors on these crossbreed turbos , no way a T3 (small series like we have in Australia) can properly drive them . They create lag down low and the small turbine/housings create restriction not long after the thing gets going . The smaller trim one like this (pics) has airflow more in step with the exhaust gas flow which is how turbos are supposed to be .

Cheers A .

post-9594-1182548612_thumb.jpg

post-9594-1182548686_thumb.jpg

From Clint32's results

The turbo has a 0.6 A/R comp housing with a 54mm comp wheel from memory, this was new. The exhaust housing is 0.6a/r with a 58mm wheel, ,aking 235-240rwkws.

Does anyone know aything about the HKS T04E turbos that came on the cast wastegates and had the external gate for the RB20? For instance could i use this exhaust housing on a GT3076R.

post-462-1182850723_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
×
×
  • Create New...