Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could someone please be kind enough to flick through their service manual and post up the inlet & exhaust manifold torque settings... Engine goes back in tomorrow provided I have these figures.

Have searched!

Thanks! :closedeyes:

Edited by Drift_Limo

edit: the EXHAUST manifold from the workshop manual is here:

post-13452-1182432394_thumb.jpg

the exhaust manifold doesnt show any torque settings on the turbo model, so im guessing it means to do them as tight as you can??? can someone confirm this?

here is the INLET manifold torque settings:

post-13452-1182499626_thumb.jpg

when i put mine together i didnt look at the torque settings, i put the new studs and nuts in pretty damn tight as well as used some lock tight.

You have to torque the the exhaust manifold. Doing them too tight is what makes them snap. there is a torque setting. I'm not at home so I don't have my files with me, but lsat manifold, I remember I had figures to use

Edited by MANWHORE

How can you torque an exhaust manifold?? You can only get to say 5 or 6 out of 12 nuts. The rest are hidden and only accessible using a spanner, and only the open end not a ring spanner.

And a HKS cast low mount is even worse, 3 nuts only. So if there is a tool out there bsides my elbow click I'd like to know about it!

inlet manifold from the workshop manual is here:

post-13452-1182432394_thumb.jpg

the exhaust manifold doesnt show any torque settings, so im guessing it means to do them as tight as you can??? can someone confirm this?

when i put mine together i didnt look at the torque settings, i put the new studs and nuts in pretty damn tight as well as used some lock tight.

Thanks mate! Can I just confirm that I will be tightening the inlet nuts 27-31nm?? Just the diagram looks like its for an exhaust manifold. I have also found in another thread figures of 18-22nm for the inlet manifold.

Also I am using a HKS cast low mount exhaust manifold. Last thing I want is for it to crack.

How can you torque an exhaust manifold?? You can only get to say 5 or 6 out of 12 nuts. The rest are hidden and only accessible using a spanner, and only the open end not a ring spanner.

And a HKS cast low mount is even worse, 3 nuts only. So if there is a tool out there bsides my elbow click I'd like to know about it!

HEHEHEHE, tell me about it :cheers:

Inlet bolts about 20 nm , exhaust studs and nuts about 30nm.

Using loktite on the exhaust nuts does stuff all, the heat will just melt it . Make sure you use the s/steel locknuts and put the washers on the correct places , there are 2 different thickness washers . Do them up in 2-3 stages and start from the midle and work your way out, check the manifold for cracks and warpage .

hang on a tick , No one answerd the question regarding what kind of torque wrench to use on it? i got 2 torque wrenches and none of them will work.. can you get a special open end torque wrench??..

Ideally you'd use a socket torque wrench on all nuts; but as you and others have

reported some of the nuts are pretty impossible to get to. I've not seen a torque

wrench that will get into the smallest spaces.

In this situation the 'elbow torque wrench' or 'feel wrench' is used.

You basically need to guess at the torque.

The easiest way to do this is probably to:

* Set your torque wrench to the bottom end of the desired torque (RB26 is 18-24Nm,

so say 18Nm) and do all the nuts up evenly till one or two that you can test

set the torque wrench off.

* Set your torque wrench to the figure you want (say 21Nm) and torque one

reachable nut up.

* Use the spanner that will go into the smallest space to feel 'how hard' it is

to _just_ move that nut. You need to put your fingers in the positions they will

be to do it up - usually quite awkward, and you need a gradually increasing push to feel this

correctly - don't give it a shove. This is 'how hard' you need to do up the ones

that you can't measure.

* Do the remainder of the nuts up that hard. Check the ones you can reach with

the torque wrench to make sure you're pretty close to the money.

Regards,

Saliya

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...