Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The cage would need to be made from cold drawn seamless steel or crome moly. If it requires cams approval it will also need to be welded by a certified welder and designed around cams specificationd. The bends in cages are not actually done with a mandrell bender as there is no way to phisically run the dye through the pipe when the length is so long they are actually cold bent useing a good quality hydralik bender so as not to stretch the tube to much I will post some pics of my cage in my R33GTR in the next few days.

since when did it need to be welded by a certified welder? have the rules changed recently?

I made our roll cage in our race car and its cams approved....Coincidental i happen to be a fabricator by trade so i guess that makes me approved to weld, but at the time i wasnt aware it had to be welded by a certified welder....strange the chief cams scrutineer never mentioned that. I guess the rules have changed over the last few years.

But yeh...CDS which i think had a grade of 350 or higher and chromemoly are the only properly approved materials to fabricate your cages from at least for cams spec anyway.

We have a electric over hydraulic bender, right die for it and no worries with bending the tube cold.

You dont have to be a qualified welder, but it helps. Otherwise the cage may not pass the visual inspection. Plus, if it was my cage, i would want to know that the welding is in conjunction with an approved weld procedure that has undergone tensile testing, radiography etc etc

If you try to use chrome moly for your cage and want to get it approved and log booked then you are up for some expensive engineering. So whilst the material itself is approved, any cage with chrome moly needs the engineerign carried out as you are no longer using the recommended diameters and wall thickness as per the FIA/CAMS guidelines

I havent checked the latest cams book, but surely they would list what diameter pipe and wall thickness the chromemoly would need to be that would comply. Yeh there is alot more fuss when welding chromemoly then just straight mild obviously. Needs to be preheated to the right temp and then tig welded and then probably some post heat so it doesnt cool too fast so it doesn't lose its tensile strength.

like harry said the full manual is online now, they send out the small versions with a couple of sections to NC and PC now as well as L2S.

its not really free though....they left the license fee the same but don't provide the book any more....nice one CAMS.

there's nothing like having a open a computer when you need to quickly check something at the track :D

  • 1 year later...

Are you trying to sell cages?

This is the second old roll cage thread you have dug up.

Edited by W0rp3D

W0rp3d - FYI, there are only two rollcage threads in the fabrication forums wtih different info. I have supplied more or updated information to assist others in their roll cage building instead of starting my own thread asking similar questions.

I have no plans to sell cages. I would like to build my own cage for my R32 and hopefully get it CAMS approved if not go to a CAMS workshop to get a cage installed.

  • 9 months later...
does any1 no how to bend pipes proply without a pipe bender for a role cage

you need a mandrel bender - home roll cages arent reall the go - get one made up and weld it yourself is better than trying to make one from scratch without the right equipment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...