Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm finally selling my car because I'm upgrading.

1998 R34 Skyline GT-T Coupe

5sp. Manual

RB25DET Neo

105,000kms

Mods Include:

Custom Aluminium Airbox

BMC Pod Filter

High-Flowed R34 Turbo with larger steel wheels

ARC Front Mount Intercooler

Power FC and Hand Controller

Sard Adjustable Fuel Regulator

R34 GTR Fuel Pump

Turbotech Manual Boost Controller

3" Split Dump Pipe to Hi-flow Cat.

3" Stainless Steel Apexi Super Megaphone Exhaust (ironically its a really quiet exhaust)

Tein Superstreet Suspension

Nismo Short Shifter with Nismo Aluminium Knob

Endless Slotted Discs (fronts only)

Endless Street Brake Pads

Work 18"x8.5 XT7 Wheels Front

Work 18"x9.5 XT7 Wheels Rear

Nankang NS2 235/40/18 Front Tyres

Nankang NS2 265/35/18 Rear Tyres

666DAN's Traction Control System reverse circuit

Alpine MP3 Head Unit with Remote

Alpine Type-S Splits

Sony Xplod Amp

Pioneer 10" Subwoofer

The car is fitted with factory Xenon headlights, LED parkers, White LED interior Bulbs and Blue LEDS for the Instrument cluster. It has the factory Privacy Glass option (dark rear glass). The car is fitted with an Australian Standards Immobiliser with central locking.

The car was very well looked after and is in immaculate condition. I am the third owner of the car (second in Australia). All modifications were completed in Brisbane. The closest the car has been to the track was it being parked there for a track day.

All servicing was completed by Centrax Auto - Endless Distributor for Australia. All servicing was done using Genuine Nissan parts (filters, timing belt and pulley at 100,000kms), Motul Oil (300V), Motul Inugel Coolant, Motul Brake Fluid and Motul Gearbox Oil.

Brakes were fitted by Centrax Auto.

Car was tuned to 200rwkw at 14psi by Matt Spry at PITS Performance (Gold Coast).

Suspension was fitted by Accurate Suspension.

Fuel Regulator, Fuel Pump and Turbo High-flow was completed by Elite Racing Developments. The turbo was in immaculate condition before the hi-flow.

Car Audio was fitted by Northfield Car Sound.

Exhaust was made and fitted by Exotic Exhausts.

The car has never missed a beat and runs very smoothly. The interior is immaculate and has factory carpets. The car was at Autosalon 2006.

I will provide:

A separate 3" Cat back exhaust (very loud but not restrictive)

Stock ECU

Receipts for servicing

Stock Front Brake Discs

Stock Gear Shifter and Knob

Pics are below.

gallery_10960_2022_5129.jpg

gallery_10960_2022_53989.jpg

gallery_10960_2022_29849.jpg

gallery_10960_2022_25416.jpg

gallery_10960_2022_64459.jpg

Please call me on 0402945381, PM me or email me at [email protected] if you want more information or would like to see the car. Please no joy riders. Serious Buyers only.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174243-fs-1998-r34-gt-t-manual-white-coupe/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...