Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I got a couple of questions about ignition timing

I have been told that standard ignition timing on a GTR is 20 degrees.

Can someone explain to me:

1) What a timing light is or what that looks like??

2) When you plug a consult into the stock ECU to check ignition timing does that mean what is set at the CAS is what it will show on the consult screen plugged into the ECU? Or is the only real way to see what ignition timing is sat at the crank by using a timing light? Because looking at the consult it shows 20 degrees BTDC.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174246-ignition-timing-qs/
Share on other sites

1) What a timing light is or what that looks like??

A light that when hooked up flashes when the #1 spark plug fires. It look a bit like a pistol, so don't take one into the local Commonwealth Bank branch.

2) When you plug a consult into the stock ECU to check ignition timing does that mean what is set at the CAS is what it will show on the consult screen plugged into the ECU? Or is the only real way to see what ignition timing is sat at the crank by using a timing light? Because looking at the consult it shows 20 degrees BTDC.

What is shown by the timing light should match what the ECU thinks it is. You adjust the CAS to make them the same.

1) What a timing light is or what that looks like??

A light that when hooked up flashes when the #1 spark plug fires. It look a bit like a pistol, so don't take one into the local Commonwealth Bank branch.

2) When you plug a consult into the stock ECU to check ignition timing does that mean what is set at the CAS is what it will show on the consult screen plugged into the ECU? Or is the only real way to see what ignition timing is sat at the crank by using a timing light? Because looking at the consult it shows 20 degrees BTDC.

What is shown by the timing light should match what the ECU thinks it is. You adjust the CAS to make them the same.

So you are saying that what i see with the computer saying 20 degrees may NOT necessarily be what it is set at the CAS until i check with a timing light to confirm? I read somewhere that a power fc for example may show 15 degrees but the CAS is not?

I just opened my bonnet and checked the sticker under the bonnet with the engine running specs, when to change oil, air filters, etc and it said my base timing should be 15 degrees at idle. mines at 20 degrees, should it be put back to standard?

Also why is it that most people say its 20 degrees? its a 97 gtr

it should be 20. the sticker is most likely wrong. It would have been fitted at compliance. knuckle heads.

Really? I thought the sticker was part of the car when it was built from the factory? My old GTR had a similar sticker too.

nah, they are fitted at compliance. and some compliance shops just use a 'one sticker fits all' mentality. cars like silvias etc do have 15degree BTDC base timing, but I can promise you hand on heart RB26DETT run 20 degrees. :thumbsup:

if someone has believe the sticker and set your car with 15 degree base it will run a shitload better when you crank it back to 20. :(

So you are saying that what i see with the computer saying 20 degrees may NOT necessarily be what it is set at the CAS until i check with a timing light to confirm? I read somewhere that a power fc for example may show 15 degrees but the CAS is not?

correct, the ecu assumes that the CAS is set "correctly", which means the ecu reads the correct timing. if its not set correctly, eg its set 2 degrees advanced from where it should be, the ecu will ignite 2 degrees earlier (but it is still thinking its igniting at same timing value as it does normally).

hence, only way to confirm timing is set correct is with timing light (and locking the ecu into locked timing mode so it reads steady 20 degrees instead of jumping around)

mate there is no RB26DETT fitted with an auto box. :P lol. so no, it's not 15 degrees. never has been, never will be. It's 20 degrees base. for all GTRs.

You tell him BB , stock base timming for Rb26 is 20 degrees. Your ecu bases everything on the fact that you have set your base timming at 20, if your base timming is set at 15 she will underperform .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...