Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was Just wanting to know how many kms per tank people are getting??

Please list your car, engine, kms and litres it takes you to fill the tank!

The best i've ever gotten was 350km for a 55litre fill and i have a R32 GTS4 with RB20DET

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174292-fuel-eco/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I constantly get 400-450km per 40-45 litres - its always at 10L/100 ! I only use BP ultimate or if not near a BP, Caltex (Vortex 98).

Although I do drive the freeway to & from work as well as alot of around town, cruises etc

Although the car is currently getting the last mods installed so I am waiting to see what the outcome will be on my fuel economy :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174292-fuel-eco/#findComment-3199780
Share on other sites

i get 65l per fill and get about 200km out of the tank, but i drive hard and mostly under boost. i drive the car to work and back evry now and then and thats a 55 km highway thats practicly empty at the hours i go to work, so its pedal to the metal. mind you guys i run at least 450-475 kw and push 23 psi on a T04Z with 1000cc squirters and 2 fuel pumps with a 2l swirl system and run 11.9 AFR in my mill.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174292-fuel-eco/#findComment-3199863
Share on other sites

i get 65l per fill and get about 200km out of the tank, but i drive hard and mostly under boost. i drive the car to work and back evry now and then and thats a 55 km highway thats practicly empty at the hours i go to work, so its pedal to the metal. mind you guys i run at least 450-475 kw and push 23 psi on a T04Z with 1000cc squirters and 2 fuel pumps with a 2l swirl system and run 11.9 AFR in my mill.

so you drive your car with 450kw mostly under boost? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174292-fuel-eco/#findComment-3200201
Share on other sites

hey guys great thread, can you guys add what fuel you are using?

i have a theory that BP is better.

i always fun BP Ultimate get about 500-700 out of 60L in R32 GTS-T totaly standard maybe 300-400 if i have a bad week at work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174292-fuel-eco/#findComment-3200261
Share on other sites

the distance you drive regularly REALLY REALLY makes a difference

normal around town, i get 300/350 ks from my 200rwkw r33

yet, out on a driving holiday last week, i got 500+ ks for highway driving

i only ever use BP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174292-fuel-eco/#findComment-3201667
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...