Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry. To clarify. Its near impossible to buy GTR rear calipers by themselves. When you do find them they are normally about the same price as fronts. However, there are often full sets of fronts and rears for sale at reasonable prices. So im hoping someone who wants the frotn Brembos to team up with me and we split the costs, and both benefit on a reasonably priced upgrade :(

Sure, but you have to come and get the, :)

Yeh the R33/34 GTR Brembos are also 4 piston caipers, just like the R32 GTR calipers. The calipers have differential piston bores, meaning the leading pistons are smaller then teh trailing pistons to help even out pad wear and pad temperature. The pistons of the R33/34 calipers are also slightly larger the the R32.

So thats the caliper difference, the added rotor difference is that you go from 296 x 32mm to 324 x 30mm. Though you will find that almost all R32 replacement rotors are 296 x 30mm .

OK, I will have a think about it, but don't wait for me.

I was thinking a brake upgrade, this might be a cheaper way to go, won't be as good as getting 6 spots with larger slotted disks or something like that though.

Provided you have the rotors and calipers they are a bolt on upgrade. If you still ahve the std stne guard that has to be removed to claer the larger rotor. Most ppl make do with tehst dbrake line as well.

Price...who knows. im not selling them, im just tryign to get someone to go in with me to split up a set. For the fronts you will be looking at around $1000-1200 including rotors. Though who knows how much meat will be left on the rotors

I thought std R34 are 300 rear and the V-Spec (II?) are 322mm rears?

that's what the DBA catalogue says...

PS zac the car is NICE

Correct, but last time I looked DBA didn't have a 322mm rear rotor for a BNR34. The 350z rear rotor is 322mm though.

Speaking of BNR34 brakes, I have a full set for sale with Project Mu HC+ pads and nismo lines... :)

Correct, but last time I looked DBA didn't have a 322mm rear rotor for a BNR34. The 350z rear rotor is 322mm though.

Speaking of BNR34 brakes, I have a full set for sale with Project Mu HC+ pads and nismo lines... :)

yep i had a set of 322 350z rotors and was going to make an adapter. too hard basket, sold the rotors...

I thought std R34 are 300 rear and the V-Spec (II?) are 322mm rears?

that's what the DBA catalogue says...

PS zac the car is NICE

This man is right :P. Mine definitely weren't 322mm when I had them. The was for the V Spec II's only. No idea why though - they were already over braked in the rears with the smaller rotors....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...