Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Been quoted $2495 for parts and labour for the below items. Am I being ripped?

Brand new power steering pump.

Major service (fluids, filters, everything etc etc)

Timing belt (blue belts???) and all bearings

Injector service

Rubber fuel lines need to be replaced

Front arm bushes (he said neopreme or something? - anyway $160 each fitted)

Plat' plugs

O2 senor

Water pump

Belts where needed

All parts plus labour, Is this a rip?

Cheers,

Steve.

Edited by weSky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174664-this-quote-is-it-to-much/
Share on other sites

best bet it to get more than one quote for the same parts from different workshops...

Thanks Gazee. I have chased a few place up and they are all telling me around$3400, $3600.

Funnily enough, Lube Mobile has been the cheapest. They did my clutch a 16 months back, fitted for $240, I provided the parts. When he said $240, I choked and had them out the same day haha. To this day, I have not had one problem.

Just more interested in seeing if anyone has had similar work and for what price.

Cheers,

Steve.

i got my water pump replaced with a rb26 one

timing belt replaced with genuine nissan

the 2 bearings that your meant to replace at the same time as timing belt were fine according to mechanic :P

my diff oil & transmission oil replaced

the other belts replaced and just coolant replaced

supplied and fitted was around $800 from memory

but your getting a fair few other things done too and all adds up so sounds about right when you think about it.

i got my water pump replaced with a rb26 one

timing belt replaced with genuine nissan

the 2 bearings that your meant to replace at the same time as timing belt were fine according to mechanic :P

my diff oil & transmission oil replaced

the other belts replaced and just coolant replaced

supplied and fitted was around $800 from memory

but your getting a fair few other things done too and all adds up so sounds about right when you think about it.

Thats comforting!

Guys,

Been quoted $2495 for parts and labour for the below items. Am I being ripped?

Brand new power steering pump.

Major service (fluids, filters, everything etc etc)

Timing belt (blue belts???) and all bearings

Injector service

Rubber fuel lines need to be replaced

Front arm bushes (he said neopreme or something? - anyway $160 each fitted)

Plat' plugs

O2 senor

Water pump

Belts where needed

All parts plus labour, Is this a rip?

Cheers,

Steve.

Those bushes are a bit much. I believe you can get aftermarket bushes for about $60 a pair on ebay!

i got my water pump replaced with a rb26 one

timing belt replaced with genuine nissan

the 2 bearings that your meant to replace at the same time as timing belt were fine according to mechanic :D

my diff oil & transmission oil replaced

the other belts replaced and just coolant replaced

supplied and fitted was around $800 from memory

but your getting a fair few other things done too and all adds up so sounds about right when you think about it.

They didnt replace the timing belt when they done all that? :)

Did they give you a printed quote with a breakdown on what you are paying for? Try and ask for that? It would give us a better idea and at least you would know what your paying for.

how did lube mobile do the clutch? ie without a hoist

Jacked up the car, 4 x stands sitting about 3-4ft off of the ground.

He used the trolly jack to drop the box on to and to lift when replacing.

He had me out there showing me everything he was doing, followed by choking at the state of the flywheel lol.

It was funny because he was this tiny little mauritious man who was about 50kg and 5 ft nothing. A tough little fella and he did it all within the day - was great!

I think a lot of places think $$$ when they hear the word clutch, turbo or engine. 240 including oil, bearings and labour is fairer for a clutch I suppose. Some of the prices I hear are fairly up there.

My original couple of quotes in Melb were either just shy of the $600 mark or a little over, with me providing ALL if the parts, minus oil

I had always had work done by Lube Mobile, I thought id give them a go for the clutch. The reason why I didnt try them first time around was because I honestly thought they could not have done a clutch being a mobile mech'

I wrote them an email withall the specs, they wrote back saying we can fit all your parts for $240 and a pot of coffee. They came out the same day and off he went. Although he did have to come back the following day as he couldnt get the fly wheel machined on the same day.

All this covered with their 12 month warranty on work, I couldnt complain!

DEPENDS WHAT A BRAND NEW POWER STEERING PUMP IS. when i was working at subaru it was 1250 for a pump.

A stock standard pump suitable for the r33 gtst was priced at $220 brand new. I think this is pretty cool considering I have seen second hand pumps on here go for $150

But 1250 for a pump is bloody painful haha

Not a direct comparison, but a workshop up here (gold coast) quoted me $600 to fit:

new timing belt - supplied by me

new exhaust gear - supplied by me

new tensioner and idler - suplied by me

seals - supplied by me

water pump - supplied by me

other belts - workshop supplied

coolant - workshop supplied

oil (unknown type) - workshop supplied.

this is a 3 hour job MAX for a mechanic - so either the other belts, oil and coolant are suuuper expensive or that's some expensive labour. maybe i'll give lube mobile a try....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...