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things to consider.

there should be no wire on the loom for pin 51 if there is no traction control on your car. having spoken to EGA4IT and he says he has seen one car (maybe a later model with a wire in the loom). he said the zener diode is not in backward on the diagram they are reverse polarity (i hope i am translating accurately).

regardless of whether you have a wire or not, you are trying to fool the ECU into thinking there is 3.7V so it 'thinks' traction control is working.

if this modification is made you need to test that the voltage TO pin 51 is about 3.7V or else you have made a mistake.

if the checklight is still on make sure that the boost controller is turned off on the powerfc as this is the usual reason the checklight stays on when first installed.

Edited by wolverine

Thanks for that, Ill give that a go...

I just tried to turn the boost control off but of course it is in Japanese so i am assuming it is off at the moment as it has a diferent japanese character to the other warnings which i am assuming the tuner left on..

Thanks again to all for your help

Dave

things to consider.

there should be no wire on the loom for pin 51 if there is no traction control on your car. having spoken to EGA4IT and he says he has seen one car (maybe a later model with a wire in the loom). he said the zener diode is not in backward on the diagram they are reverse polarity (i hope i am translating accurately).

regardless of whether you have a wire or not, you are trying to fool the ECU into thinking there is 3.7V so it 'thinks' traction control is working.

if this modification is made you need to test that the voltage TO pin 51 is about 3.7V or else you have made a mistake.

if the checklight is still on make sure that the boost controller is turned off on the powerfc as this is the usual reason the checklight stays on when first installed.

thanks mate, that explains everything

nice and easy, cheers again

thats what my mechanic said that you cant get the exact ohm stated resistors

it doesnt have to be exactly 400 ohm, it could be 500 or even 300 ohms, the idea is to provide a reasonably high resistive path back to negative so that current does not flow through the ecu in the event of some sort of failure/short.

also the zener diode needs to be installed in reverse bias. your auto electrician should know what this means.

it doesnt have to be exactly 400 ohm, it could be 500 or even 300 ohms, the idea is to provide a reasonably high resistive path back to negative so that current does not flow through the ecu in the event of some sort of failure/short.

also the zener diode needs to be installed in reverse bias. your auto electrician should know what this means.

thanks andy

awesome news

cant wait to hook mine up and 'see' what happens :D

  • 8 months later...
  • 8 months later...

i have had a few pm's and just thought id add a quick note to prevent confusion/frustration, if u cant find a 10.3V zener diode you can use multiple diodes that add up to 10.3V as long as they are connected in series

  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys,

Having some trouble with my powerFC. My car to clarify is a ER34 (R34GTT) that has had a conversion to manual. the powerFC throws up a backlight on the THR sensor with a voltage of 0.00. The car runs perfectly after an init clear. however I have some problems. MIL light is always on, TCS light is on and cannot be toggled with the TCS switch on the dash. the Aircon turns on but the compressor does not and last but not least HICAS light is also on.

any ideas if my series 1 R34 has the same problem as the Stags?

Cheers.

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 5 years later...

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