Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I want to learn the basics of remapping a car. I have an r32 GTST. What hardware/software do I need to buy to to remap my ecu.

I really want to have a play and learn more about my car.

I have a friend that is experianced in tuning some other type of cars that will give me a hand.

And before you say dont do it you will blow it up,, I really dont care if i destroy the thing its a toy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175035-tuning-my-ownecu/
Share on other sites

Mate there is nothing game about it, you will need an eprom burner, and datascan. A consult also helps. If you can get a wideband a/f meter it also helps, but as long as your car doesnt have any problems(such as fuel pump) then its not absolutely necessary. My first remap was on my Z32 tt. The A/F ratios are calculated in the numbers you enter into the appropriate rom addresses. We entered 12:1 afr for the full power load cells, and took it to a dyno day- result exactly 12:1 afr under load. There are a few programs out there, and many of them are freeware.

The A/F ratios are calculated in the numbers you enter into the appropriate rom addresses. We entered 12:1 afr for the full power load cells, and took it to a dyno day- result exactly 12:1 afr under load. There are a few programs out there, and many of them are freeware.

You sure about that? I'd definitely invest in a wideband O2 sensor for tuning and make sure you hook up some sort of knock detection as well.

You sure about that? I'd definitely invest in a wideband O2 sensor for tuning and make sure you hook up some sort of knock detection as well.

Yep, sure. If your running a stock AFM and injectors, then the cells for load are entered as the hex value of the afr you want to run, but would definately agree about the wide band. Knock can be monitored by consult.

But stock afm/injectors are almost 20 years old now, surely it'd be risky to think they are still working the same as when they came out the factory?

He ran it on a dyno and verified the result, so there's no much room for doubt.

Knock can be monitored by consult.

I have a consult interface and have datascan and ecutalk - neither of which show knock. Do you know of any consult software that has knock reading? Datascan can monitor arbitrary memory locations, so i assume if i knew the location i could read the sensors output...

But stock afm/injectors are almost 20 years old now, surely it'd be risky to think they are still working the same as when they came out the factory?

Everyone who drives these cars assumes they are still working the same, the factory doesnt tune the management to allow for things wearing out. Injectors and AFM tend to fail rather than lose performance, the only exception is injectors which if never cleaned can become dirty(although with modern fuels it doesnt tend to be a problem, there are plenty of cars with 300000k's with the original injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...