Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title says.

I got some from GCG, but they are speedflow/alloy. I'd prefer steel, zinc plated is OK, but stainless would be better.

Nothing wrong with speedflow, just like the durability and hardness of steel.

Before I run up a million dollar bill on std calls, thought I'd ask here first.

PS the oil banjo and banjo bolt from GCG is stainless, so I'm Ok for it.

No you wont. Though it will be tight and you may need to angle the cart slightly to give yourself space to get the fitting on. Mine is angled about 5 degrees anti clockwise looking from the front so the oil fitting clears the number 1 runner on the hks manifold.

But mine has a bolt on adapter to suit the old t3 2 bolt inlet with a 90 degree bend attached to that, and then a male male adapter and then a flexible line so it takes a bit of room :thumbsup:

I don't have water lines so cant help you there, though i figured if i went a water cooled turbo i would just get some earls lines with a 90 on the turbo end and a male male adapter (compression fitting, same as my oil line) screwed into the turbo.

I didn't get the GCG hose kit!!

All I got was the fittings. The oil feed fitting is a banjo and bolt. There is no 90 degree bend, I won't have any problem that I can see. I'll get s/s hose swaged onto the end of the banjo by pirtek/enzed and I'm pretty sure it will fit fine.

The only place I have 90 degree bends is thwe speedflow water line units which I don't want to use, I'd much rather have normal steel banjo and bolt units similar to std fittings.

If your still certain I'll have problems, a pic would be good.

So the water is a 14mm Banjo with a M14 x 1.5 banjo bolt and the oil feed a 7/16 Banjo with a Inverted Flare 7/16-24 Banjo Bolt.

I checked out motorsport connections but they only have the m14x1.5 banjo bolt listed, not the banjo w/hose end its self. Might drop them a line to see if they are available. :S

So the water is a 14mm Banjo with a M14 x 1.5 banjo bolt and the oil feed a 7/16 Banjo with a Inverted Flare 7/16-24 Banjo Bolt.

I checked out motorsport connections but they only have the m14x1.5 banjo bolt listed, not the banjo w/hose end its self. Might drop them a line to see if they are available. :S

Im 99% sure ive got one off them before

hey mate iv got some im not using from my HKS 3037 (same turbo your using if i remember properly), cant remember what their made of but i can check out when i get home from work tonight if your still interested

thanks, I'll give them a try. So far, plenty of alloy sfa steel, no s/s.

I can get the bolts in zinc plated [standard] steel, but no web site has what I want. And no banjo's. Pirtek, Enzed, Goodridge, ATP, HPF, and others as well. But you'd have to lay money on someone having exactly what I'm after, I'm just not looking in the right places.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...