Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have recently purchased an R34 25GTT, and was wondering what petrol to use.

I have gathered that 95 Octane is suitable, yet i pumped V-Power from Shell, which was a little bit more expensive. Just wanted to find out what others out there with similar imported cars prefer to use, and if 95 is good enough (i.e. that it wont damage the car like normal unleaded would)

CHeers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176015-r34-petrol-choices/
Share on other sites

32 , 33 or 34 i would highly highly highly recommend premium.

BP ultimate, shell V power, or mobil's premium one (cant think of the name), are the only 3 i consider. i personally wouldnt use 95, i stick with BP which is 98. use it 100% of the time and works for me.

this has been covered a bit before so try a search and im sure you will read more posts about it.

dude, there's no ' R34 petrol choices ' LOL. Basically most of the skylines, silvias, supras are similiar. Just stick to 98 Octane and you'll be fine. Doesn't really matter Shell V-Power, BP Ultimate, Mobil Synergy 8000, Caltex Vortex 98, these 4 are the most popular choices. Different people may argue Shell is better than Caltex blah blah blah, but they are basically the same. :D

Like other people have said, stick with 98 octane (or better). Also you will get best results if you stay with the same brand of fuel too.

I'd stay away from anything less than 98 octane unless you have to use it (ie. in the country). Your fuel economy will likely be better with 98 octane anyway so the overall cost will probably not be that different. Its also better for your engine so it will save you money in the long run :D

Just like everyone said, 98oct would be ideal but if you are a real tightass, 92/95oct would be fine if you dont thrash your car. Thrashing your R34 on 92/95, your motor will ping its head off and eventually couple of cylinders (if you are lucky enough :( ) will come flying out from your block.

I know a few guys that were using 92/95oct in their rexies, skylines and 200s due to the high fuel prices couple of months ago, most of these boys were driving in excess of 100km per day so saving every cent mattered.

Just like everyone said, 98oct would be ideal but if you are a real tightass, 92/95oct would be fine if you dont thrash your car. Thrashing your R34 on 92/95, your motor will ping its head off and eventually couple of cylinders (if you are lucky enough :D ) will come flying out from your block.

I know a few guys that were using 92/95oct in their rexies, skylines and 200s due to the high fuel prices couple of months ago, most of these boys were driving in excess of 100km per day so saving every cent mattered.

I've heard this argument many times, but given that using 91octane fuel (which most regular unleaded is) is risking blowing your engine, ask yourself if it really is cheaper for the sake of $5 a week in savings...

In my opinion spending a little extra on fuel (its not that much really) is very cheap insurance and protection for your engine :(

I've heard this argument many times, but given that using 91octane fuel (which most regular unleaded is) is risking blowing your engine, ask yourself if it really is cheaper for the sake of $5 a week in savings...

In my opinion spending a little extra on fuel (its not that much really) is very cheap insurance and protection for your engine :)

yeh agreed.. when it comes down to it, the savings are quite minimal, and you relly got to look at the longer term.. i mean u could sacrifice a cup of coffee, or pack of smokes rather than risking ur baby :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...