Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Aaaah shit, I've been living in Japan for the last 3-odd years, and engine power here is measured in "ps" (PS is short for Pferdestarke, the term for metric horsepower... 1.013 = 1Hp), and thats what the cars are measured by in the Jap version of GT3.

well, i try and i try but right now i got crap for skillz...i'm using a r32 skyline gts....it works great for midfield raceway, but i want to take it to grand valley, but in order to go there u have to be able to do a 180 degree drift, and well i cant do that...plus, i use a automatic transmission, it works fine cuz the manual is tricky to use...so thx for the help rezz, but i ask u if u could tell me how to do the 180 slide, and do u be really specfic about it as its hard for me to understand things that are super simple. thx

Yeh ive been playing with it for a bit, it seems the 200SX type X (180SX) with about ~400hp, dumpt and hard, camber front drifts exceptionally well and you can link corners very well, still can hoop it in lower gears if not careful though

also played with a 300zx with about 460hp and it was beautiful, damn thing drifted perfectly lot of trouble to spin it

I found when I played the game, the 300zx was the best drift car, With about 4.5 degrees camber on the front wheels, about 600 hp, few cm off the ground, and stiff suspension, was the most fun drift car I built....

Looks good Deep purple with White Tri spokes :(

I find that i can't control RWD cars :D I use the R34 GTR with just over 1000hp and the FWD set to be pretty low but just enough to stop you from spinning too easily. You can be really agressive with this car - same for most of the 4wd cars.

I guess i need more practice with RWD cars :)

Anyone still GT2 drifting?

I don't have a ps2 yet.... But GT2 is good fun, in timetrial mode on Arcade. I like Autumn ring mini/Autumn Ring (turn around and do the course backwards, its better). I like the R32 GTS-T, with about 370hp, the RX7 GT-turbo '83 and GT-X '90, and the DR30 RS-X with about 421hp. I have a "JMS replica" R33 GTS-T which is not bad , but is very touchy. The AE86 is good but requires a lot of commitment to corner entry which goes wrong easily.

The S13/RPS13 cars are too twitchy, and the s14/s15 are not responsive enough.

I basically use supersoft/normal tyre combos, lowered to the bumpstops up front, springrates I normally leave basically as the 'full customisation' default, I might up the bound rates and swaybars, 3.5 degrees camber up front and 1.5-2.0 rear. 2 way LSD works well, all the cars have twin plate clutches and full customisation boxes set fairly close.

I set my cars a little softer than some people so they are more predictable, and also weight transfer is enhanced, I use feint drift more than handbrake to set the car up, so I need a big weight shift to get it sideways. Also running the suspension that little bit softer helps transfer more weight forward under braking drift.

Also GT2 cars seem to have a "camber threshold" that is, too much front camber tends to induce understeer.

anyways,

hope that helps some people

Originally posted by GFXman

how you going with your videos dude?

No luck yet, I'm thinking of shooting it again with a digital camera (with vid-rec funtion) and using a USB interface with the memory stick... although I'm still not sure what to do with the file after that.

once you've got the file on your pc, just compress it with Windows Movie Maker or something similar.

VirtualDub is pretty good (and free)

For web delivery, you're prolly best to use WMV format as it compresses ALOT. The trade off is obviously quality.

If you want any help, just PM me

divx gives good quality, but just for the sake of demonstrating the skills, quality isn't really necessary. wmv give much smaller files which is perfect for web delivery. divx is better when quality is required

IMHO :O

ok......i tried the MT and i kinda got the feeling for it.....but when trying to use it in drifting, thats where the probublems start. first off... i dont know whether to shift up or down when coming into the cornewr cuz i dont know if u want to give/take away torque....my guess is upshift so that ur rpms dont max out on u when ur in the turn. i also switched from my R32 to a Supra RZ with 1000hp. i went to fred mayer and checked out the magazines on drifting and about blew my head off with confusion.....i just cant tell what to do......so if one of u could send me a video file with "how to drift" stuff on it like a replay or something that would be most generious (i sound like a teachers pet right there..lol) of u. oh and on the video could u plz put the thing were it tells when ur accelarating and braking so i can tell what ur suppossed to do and not to do. thx

Originally posted by SmOkEuRbEsMoKeD

first off... i dont know whether to shift up or down when coming into the cornewr cuz i dont know if u want to give/take away torque....my guess is upshift so that ur rpms dont max out on u when ur in the turn.

Ok:

1) BALANCE. It's no good using a 1000hp car, coz theres no way that you can "feather" the throttle button carefully enough. Why? How do I know this? It's a 740kw car! When it comes on boost, with super soft slicks or not, that thing is gonna kick out violently. Theres no way to hold a drift coming into, through, and then out of the corner. I've tried it sooooo many times since early 2001, and why is it I can pull off almost perfect, linked, handbraked drift with the 180sx/Silvia's, yet with ANYTHING else it just gets frustrating coz the cars either spin out, or just do a gay little tail wag?

2) TECHNIQUE. Brake, shift down, tap the throttle. Brake, shift down, tap the throttle. Brake, shift down, tap the throttle. Brake, shift down, tap the throttle.:( Of course if your coming up to a hairpin or a slower corner, you'd have to shift down 2 gears or more depending. IT'S ALL ABOUT SETTING THE CAR UP BEFORE THE CORNER. Reduce the speed until you think you can manage the car through the approaching corner. the thing is, it helps if your going SLOWER, because you can easily speed up if you need to, the hard thing is slowing down again. You should be able to control the car without using the brakes so much during the drift (for now), but if your too fast into the corner, well, your gonna go off the track!

3) PATIENCE. Keep at it. You will get it. I set my controller up like this: R1 = Shift up, R2 = Shift down, Square = Brake, X = Accelerator, Circle = Handbrake, Triangle = Look Back. This set up leaves your left hand to solely do steering only. Using the GT FORCE Steering Wheel sucks coz you almost brake the thing trying to do lefthand corner to righthand corner links...

About the video, my video card in my computer is a NVIDIA GeForce4 MX440, and I have no way to connect my PS2 to the computer, but as soon as I get it sorted, I`ll post up a nice demo at Grand Valley...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...