Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to ask what might be a dumb question, but how many boost controllers should be required on a 32 GTR (yes it is still running two turbos).

My mechanic has just installed two boost controllers as part of some work he has been doing on the car. He had first installed just one controller, but found that this did not work, so he has installed 2 now, one between each turbo and the actuator. Just wondering whether this sounds right?

Any help would be appreciated, a lot

You only need one boost controller if correctly setup.

He didnt do it correctly if "one" didnt work.

I would suggest another mechanic. He should know how to setup boost control on a GTR if he has any idea about twin turbo applications

The more the merrier I say..

For double points see if you can get 2 boost controllers PER turbo.. :dry:

Again.. might be a silly questions..

..BUT..

If you have a boost controler PER turbo.. you can change each turbo's boost pressure..

so.. can you get one to come in early with a small amount of boost.. and another with a lareger amount of boost later? I.e sequential turbo?

..just a thought..

The more the merrier I say..

For double points see if you can get 2 boost controllers PER turbo.. :dry:

Again.. might be a silly questions..

..BUT..

If you have a boost controler PER turbo.. you can change each turbo's boost pressure..

so.. can you get one to come in early with a small amount of boost.. and another with a lareger amount of boost later? I.e sequential turbo?

..just a thought..

that wont change WHEN the turbos kick in as they'll both be producing the same boost at any given psi. only difference is one will have a higher limit.

GTS - Hahah, nice try, though no

Sequential setups work because the turbos themselves are of different size / AR etc. An single EBC that allows you to control the solenoid through out the RPM range, and with proper gain control should grant you your wishes, and control the twins.

Edited by GeeTR
that wont change WHEN the turbos kick in as they'll both be producing the same boost at any given psi. only difference is one will have a higher limit.

Secur1ty, could you please explain the part about one of the turbos having a higher limit?

Is there any problem with running two boost controllers? Or should i take it to someone else and get one removed and the other set up correctly? Or if someone can show me a pic i could do it myself :)

i was saying that if you're running 2 separate boost controllers it will be hard to determine which one is pushing more psi than the other unless you use 2 electronic boost controllers. with a single boost controller you'll have an even spread between them no matter the type. even if it spikes, it will spike evenly :)

for eg, 2 scenarios:

1st is the 2 boost controller setup.

lets say the boost gauge is reading 14psi. with 2 boost controllers you may not have an even spread as one turbo may be pushing 4psi, and the other 10psi. you cant tell.

this will cause one turbo to always be overworked.

but hey, at least you'll have 1 turbo in VERY good condition which you can sell to help with your rebuild.

2nd is single.

even spread, easily manageable. no dramas.

all you've got to do is get one of the vacuum hoses coming from one turbos wastegate actuator, then get a T piece and plumb it into the vacuum hose going to the wastegate actuator of the other.

i was saying that if you're running 2 separate boost controllers it will be hard to determine which one is pushing more psi than the other unless you use 2 electronic boost controllers. with a single boost controller you'll have an even spread between them no matter the type. even if it spikes, it will spike evenly :P

for eg, 2 scenarios:

1st is the 2 boost controller setup.

lets say the boost gauge is reading 14psi. with 2 boost controllers you may not have an even spread as one turbo may be pushing 4psi, and the other 10psi. you cant tell.

this will cause one turbo to always be overworked.

but hey, at least you'll have 1 turbo in VERY good condition which you can sell to help with your rebuild.

2nd is single.

even spread, easily manageable. no dramas.

all you've got to do is get one of the vacuum hoses coming from one turbos wastegate actuator, then get a T piece and plumb it into the vacuum hose going to the wastegate actuator of the other.

Ahh i see what you mean with the different levels of boost. That was one of my concerns too.

I've revised my diagram according to what i understand you saying with the T piece etc. Would you mind having a look at the attached dodgy paint thing ive contructed and see if i've understood correctly? Is everything positioned correctly here? And do i simply plug the second hole created from turbo inlet 2?

Thanks again :D

post-10873-1184399340_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jpowys

The controller really needs to be connected to both turbo intakes.

The other thing, I thought that wastegate actuators were connected to the turbo outlet.

post-38898-1184479548_thumb.jpg

Such as this one, because the daiphram is operated by air pressure which opens the gate.

Edited by Slim Mat

what about boost duty?. doesnt this allow you to make the turbo work harder or less, to enable users to compensate for old worn out turbos etc or to create a better boost curve? with AVC-R

so you could have 1 set to come in early as possible, hit max boost , then taper. have the other duty lower, then later in the rev range - set NE points to induce higher duty with higher limit?

could this work?

The controller really needs to be connected to both turbo intakes.

The other thing, I thought that wastegate actuators were connected to the turbo outlet.

post-38898-1184479548_thumb.jpg

Such as this one, because the daiphram is operated by air pressure which opens the gate.

thats how all boost controllers work mate, only difference is that the max boost is limited by the wastegate actuator itself (i.e. what the spring is rated at in the WA).

to turn the boost up you add a boost controller between the boost FEED (which is anywhere on the inlet piping including the turbo itself) and the wastegate actuator.

what about boost duty?. doesnt this allow you to make the turbo work harder or less, to enable users to compensate for old worn out turbos etc or to create a better boost curve? with AVC-R

so you could have 1 set to come in early as possible, hit max boost , then taper. have the other duty lower, then later in the rev range - set NE points to induce higher duty with higher limit?

could this work?

no it couldn't.

Solenoid "Duty" is the pulse rate to the solenoid (which dictates boost level)

"Gain control" is better described as the speed in which the EBC moves between the duty needed to hold the gate shut (so off boost) and the duty needed to maintain the set boost.

Gain controls the rate, or intensity in which boost builds to the set user set limit.

This is my understanding, until i learn otherwise :P

M

Secur1ty : Sl!m Mat was just trying to point out that the reference had to be taken from the turbo outlet, not the turbo inlet..

just to clarify for the original poster, as it differs from that mspaint drawing posted.

james.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
    • Hey everyone! Im so grateful to be apart of this community and ill do my best to be apart of this. Firstly, i'm not disclosing my real name due to in real life circumstances surrounding my privacy and public image (sorry lol) Secondly, The only thing personal I am willing to share is that I'm from Sydney and a descendant of one of Sydneys largest mortgage firms. I got gifted my first ever car, a 2022 Porsche Cayenne and I love it to death. Ive been driving it for about 5 or 6 months now and honestly Im so grateful for my parents for gifting me this vehicle. However recently I've been working my ass off to afford my second car (which I need help deciding soooooo community help me out please?). Once decided, im planning to try modify it myself. Recent I've been thinking about getting a Skyline, particularly a 25GT or GT-V, yes I know overrated as hell, but I'm also considering a Chaser which I recently came to love. However my dream is to one day own a 180SX (So hard to find clean versions and im not really into importing).  Lastly before I send this off, I want to apologize if I sound tacky or pretentious. I try not to and want to genuinely learn from everyone and anyone. (Im no expert in this area) Thanks for reading!
    • I've got three stashed away but it's starting to get silly with the prices 
×
×
  • Create New...