Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Darrin, as far as I am aware, you need a split dump for an R34 to fit the Stagea, thats why your pipe wouldn't have fitted. Just Jap only lists them for R32 and R33 GTS-T and the one I bought for my R32 some time ago fitted straight up, with none of the issues you have mentioned, and I checked it the other day while my car was up on the hoist and everything in a-ok.

I have no dealt they fit R32 and r33, because that is what they were designed for.

I had no problem with having to extend the vertical section to miss the floor, but I do have a problem with the warped flange. I am not prepared to fill the gap with sealant. It is that bad.

When I ordered the pipe thru JJ, Daron was not sure which one exactly fits and had mixed reports from customers. So he agreed to send me with with the chance of a refund if it did not work. so that thats what will happen.

R34 dump pipe is longer by approx 20-30mm and has a extra mounting bracket which could be cut off if not needed. I have not measured or compared one to a R33, but that is what I have been told by JJ

All the people that have fitted some sort of dump to a Stagea have used R33 ones.

Just to be clear, this thread is not to put down Justjap's products or quality, but to simply find a solution to my problem. Justjap's understanding and service has been great.

So bascially I am back to square one.

their service is good, quality is generally 80% good tho..... with my bellmouth had to have the flange rewelded, too many gaps due to shitpoor quality weld. didnt cost much.

flows real well, and fits fine :laughing-smiley-014:

This pic is the JJR split dump. Note that the pipe is straight as circled and this is where it hits the car.

The second pic is JJR bell mouth design. Note the is a offset in the straight pipe which should miss the car

This could be the problem?

Also spoke to Bosimporting and they told me that I need a R34 dump for the series 2 and r33 dump for the series 1.

This does not make sense as they are they same floor pan and the motor and turbo are in the same position.

But the r34GTT dump is 20-30mm longer in length and the cat is also longer in a r34 GTT. So why would it fit?

post-14923-1184635193_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1184635234_thumb.jpg

Had a look and compared a R34gtt bosimporting non split dump pipe tonight to the R33 JJR split I current have

The R34 dump was approx 100mm longer than the R33 one.

Also compared the R33 JJR pipe to the standard series 2 factory exhaust and the length from the turbo to cat flange was the same.

So a R34 will not fit.

Will have to find a R33 one that will miss the floor.

I finally got a dump pipe to fit

I used a R33 Xforce bell mouth dump pipe

Fitted pretty good, but had to create a bit more clearance by removing approx 3-4 mm from the end of the gearbox cross member and massage the floor where the gearbox cross member bolts on.

Pic to follow. . .

what a PITA process that has been.

did we end up confirming anything to fit a S1?

I've got mine ready to be put on, Duncan. Care to help me? I've got the jack, stands, tools and the space - I just wish the garage wasn't so bloody cold!

what a PITA process that has been.

did we end up confirming anything to fit a S1?

S1 would be the same

The main thing learnt out of this, is what ever dump you use it must set down lower to clear the floor and then set back up to cat converter, ie not run straight to the cat.

I have a BOS imports split dump to go on, I know of at least one Stagea S1 owner that has fitted one of these with no issues so I will let you know how I go. The section of pipe heading towards the cat definitely does have a dip in it though so maybe that is the difference...

Luke

I have a BOS imports split dump to go on, I know of at least one Stagea S1 owner that has fitted one of these with no issues so I will let you know how I go. The section of pipe heading towards the cat definitely does have a dip in it though so maybe that is the difference...

Luke

I spoke with Bos importing aswell. He tried to tell me I needed a r34 dump for my series 2 not a r33.

R34 dumps are longer and a different shape under the car. It would have not fitted. Another SAU member in Brisbane has a R34 Bos pipe for sale which I had a look at and it would not have worked

I also spoke with Alexcim about his Bos R33 split on his car and even though it fitted, it still had clearance problems. Also spoke with Rev210 about his JJR split on his car and he had clearance issues aswell even though he still fitted it.

So out of all this, until someone makes a stagea specific dump pipe, the ones that are off the shelf for r33's are not a perfect fit.

so after all this, does anyone have a surplus mild steel bellmouth dump/front to suit r33 they need to sell, to me, cheap?

No, but I have 2 shiney s/steel split dumps, never used for R33's

That is what I used, but not cheap in s/steel $350

nah, just jap brand, stainless steel $220 delivered.

thats what I have. got it 2 yrs ago..... off ebay JustJap store.

needed slight alteration to the welded seam on the bellmouth (gaps), cost bugga all ($100 incl fitment)

nah, just jap brand, stainless steel $220 delivered.

thats what I have. got it 2 yrs ago..... off ebay JustJap store.

needed slight alteration to the welded seam on the bellmouth (gaps), cost bugga all ($100 incl fitment)

They only have the split type for $250 and the Xforce bell mouth for $330 now

You can also now get the s/steel split type (same as the JJR one) for $199 on ebay from another seller, but only good for r32/r33

Installed my BOS stainless split on the weekend with NO clearance or alignment issues. This is on an S1 and is a fairly late model split pipe, so it worked for me, which I am really happy about.

gallery_8679_1264_18946.jpg

Note the huge clearance between the pipe and the aircon line, this is one of the things that was changed in the design of the split.

gallery_8679_1264_52024.jpg

It comes close to the rear gearbox cross member but not too close, it won't hit it. The exhaust could be 40mm longer on total to be perfect but it's pretty good, just pulling forward on the rear hanging points a little and it is close to the rear sub-frame due to this. On a quick test drive nothing touched or rattled so I'm pretty happy with it as is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...