Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bought these with the intention of running them on my car. Though with a 343mm rotor it means that wheel clearance is going to be very tight on a 17" wheel. (The calipers are bloody big)

Rather then go smaller 332mm rotor want to go to a smaller Project U caliper that will work better with the 343mm rotors

Brand new still in box, they are the big daddy of the 4 piston caliper world. Can run a large range of diameter rotors and use 44mm and 40mm pistons

Price drop - $1800

Want $2050 for them. (was $2300) Have now purchased other brakes so ... :)

Can also supply radial mounts to whatever brand and diameter rotor you want to purchase and run

gallery_462_50_7629.jpg

gallery_462_50_92242.jpg

gallery_462_50_56706.jpg

gallery_462_50_119032.jpg

post-462-1184333378_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176472-new-f50-brembo-calipers/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well it appears i need these for an upcoming rally so will be throwing them on the car with 340mm rotors. So if you are interested i will gappily part with the rotor, caliper and adaptor setup once my new brakes arrive...the calipers and rotors will be 1,000kms old so will be cheaper. So make an offer

But it wont be a common 17" wheel to gfit the 355mm rotor.

I just sold the 332x32 mm rotors, so if you are after rotors i can track down some. The best bet is to grab some CSC rotors locally and i can get the adaptor made up. With the Aus dollar now sucking against the US/Yen buying locally is probably cheapest.

I now have 3 set of wheels and 2 brembo setups...need to sell some of this gear as i have too much money tied up in stuff lying around trying to get a usable package for my GTSt :laugh:

sorry if this has been answered but would these bolt straight onto a r33/34 gtr 330mm rotor and hub without needing custom brackets? How much bigger are they compared to the 33 brembos in overall size (not the piston size but the outside caliper size)?

They physically are much larger making them far more rigid. They run exernal bridge line making the brake fluid run much cooler. Lastly they run larger pistons giving you more braking torque. Completely different animals. The GTR Brembos are not that different to the Sumitomo calipers on the R32 GTR, the F50 calipers are completely different

They dont need "custom" brackets, but they do need brackets that are sized depending the rotor you want to run. Some kits have them used on the std Nissan Brembo R33 GTR rotor which is 324mm. Though typically the F40 caliper is preferred for this application.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...