Jump to content
SAU Community

Post Pics Of Your R33 Engine Bay!

Sambo33

By Sambo33,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
i'd probably manually form the 6" pipe part - as its probably difficult/expensive to buy (especially that small quantity) - Cheers for the info though :D

Did you powdercoat or paint the black pieces - fuel rail, cas bracket, inlet cam gear, strut brace mounts?

Fair enough. My mechanic's shop is next to to a engineering shop and we used one of the off cuts :).

Some black pieces are powder coated, others are painted. Basically anything that had parts that could melt were painted; this includes the cam cover, CAS, inlet cam gear, etc. Parts like the strut brace brackets, power steering reservoir, fuel rail, oil cooler mounts, and all other brackets, etc were powder coated.

All the charcoal colour items are powder coated as well as the red cam covers.

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

UW8NCY
UW8NCY

currently doing a rebuild with gt4094r new alloy radiator more chrome and polished stuff will post up when finished.

Posted Images

PSI Parts Veteran

PSI Parts

Posted
Posted
I painted all the cam gears etc, but the clear cam cover, purchased from PSI Parts, didn't fit and fouled on the inlet VCT bolts. He tried to claim my cam cover backing plate sat 3mm further back than normal; funny how the standard cover has no issues with fitment and clearances. >_<

I did not claim that at all, I even personally fitted your cover on a standard RB25 which had no fitment issues. Disagreeance aside, we have just finished another batch that have had a few minor modifications (one of which was to make the VCT bulge slightly larger to allow for NEO engines).

cruzin33 Veteran

cruzin33

Posted
Posted
I did not claim that at all, I even personally fitted your cover on a standard RB25 which had no fitment issues. Disagreeance aside, we have just finished another batch that have had a few minor modifications (one of which was to make the VCT bulge slightly larger to allow for NEO engines).

Mine fitted perfect on the rb25det >_<

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Dale PM sent, prefer to discuss in private, but i stand by what i wrote.

MintR33: Pretty much. I know we had to gently bend one of the tubes, coming out of the reservoir, but that was more to do with clearing the turbo. The lines did reach without modification, but obviously do not sit in the natural position, but this was fine as the lines are still not kinked.

  • 1 month later...
4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted

I took a quick photo tonight of my engine bay, I had the plenum, crossover pipe and rocker covers polishes, then I chromed the injector caps and rail as well as the timing belt cover. Add a few silicone hoses and its starting to look better.

Only problem with this process is the more you do, the more you see can also be done. I’ll start on the left hand side of the engine next.

post-1720-1208857662_thumb.jpg

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hi 4door sleeper,

Could you tell me if the Greddy Washer bottle uses both front and rear washer motors? and does it bolt in as per the standard unit?

Yes the bottle has spots for 2 motors (had to use my old ones as it didnt come with new ones)

It mounts (slides down) onto a bracket they provide, not sure if they used exosting bolt holes or had to drill them.

Since I couldnt edit my earlier post, here is another picture of my engine bay from the other side

post-1720-1208928567_thumb.jpg

Edited by 4door_Sleeper
Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

Posted
Posted
Yes the bottle has spots for 2 motors (had to use my old ones as it didnt come with new ones)

It mounts (slides down) onto a bracket they provide, not sure if they used exosting bolt holes or had to drill them.

Excellent, if what you're saying is that it's a bolt in replacement thats what I need for my GReddy plenum

PSI Parts Veteran

PSI Parts

Posted
Posted

I guess it depends on your piping setup. As the 'GTR' style piping allows the washer bottle to stay in it's current location. Other people have relocated the washer bottle to underneath the guard. The other option might be a catch tank and washer bottle setup in one, similar to that of the RIPS version in NZ.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

I have since spoken to Dale from PSI Parts and he has kindly agreed to exchange my cam cover, once i have the time to send the original one back to him.

I have since removed my frustrated post as i now realise PSI Parts are an honest business.

Dale i know it has been a while since we last spoke, but i haven't as yet had the time to post the cover, sorry it took me so long to find where i had posted my comments.

PSI Parts Veteran

PSI Parts

Posted
Posted
I have since spoken to Dale from PSI Parts and he has kindly agreed to exchange my cam cover, once i have the time to send the original one back to him.

I have since removed my frustrated post as i now realise PSI Parts are an honest business.

Dale i know it has been a while since we last spoke, but i haven't as yet had the time to post the cover, sorry it took me so long to find where i had posted my comments.

No worries mate. Whenever you're ready :)

Hope the car is past it's run in stage so you can start to enjoy it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Original window sticker?

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...