Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks mate for the info on settings, i was worried when mine was showing 40 knock lol, seems its not such a big deal. I get knock (interference noise) all the time if i plug in another usb cable for my innovate egt logger and autronics data cable which is annoying, not sure how to get around this either?

I am unsure about this one mate.. my tune laptop only has one usb port lol.. so yeah.. dont let your car knock over 60 and all will be fine.

Good luck with the missing issue, what valve springs are you using and what head ???

I am unsure about this one mate.. my tune laptop only has one usb port lol.. so yeah.. dont let your car knock over 60 and all will be fine.

Good luck with the missing issue, what valve springs are you using and what head ???

i think i may have found a breakthrough on why its misfiring, ill let u know when i chat to a few people about it, im using jun valve springs to suit the cams (came in a kit) and the head is from a rb26.

I found this on the Gizzmo tuning tools forum..

It says you have to make your car detonate to set the peek level? THATS JUST INSANE!!!

Gizzmo wrote this...

-----

The knock alert will be the last thing that you set as to do this you need to make a base run without det e.g. conservative timing and fuel in order to get an idea of the vehicles normal backround noise. The centre frequency cannot be determined by the piston size alone, many other factors come into this including cam profile, manifolding, rod ratio etc. In addition to this the center frequency will change with RPM and Load, so, this starts to become a bit grey. To get a starting point you will need to induce detonation but this must be at conservative loads as combustion presures under det go at least 6 times higher than normal combustion pressures. While instigating slight det adjust your center frequency in real time until you assertain where it is loudest, this will be your center frequency for that given load and RPM. Having done this I would recommend setting a bandpass of approx .3 to .4 to allow for variations with RPM and load. To be honest I myself rarely if ever adjust my own Kmon from a center of 6Khz with a bandpass of .5, at that I never miss a ping.

-----

  • 1 month later...
I found this on the Gizzmo tuning tools forum..

It says you have to make your car detonate to set the peek level? THATS JUST INSANE!!!

Gizzmo wrote this...

-----

The knock alert will be the last thing that you set as to do this you need to make a base run without det e.g. conservative timing and fuel in order to get an idea of the vehicles normal backround noise. The centre frequency cannot be determined by the piston size alone, many other factors come into this including cam profile, manifolding, rod ratio etc. In addition to this the center frequency will change with RPM and Load, so, this starts to become a bit grey. To get a starting point you will need to induce detonation but this must be at conservative loads as combustion presures under det go at least 6 times higher than normal combustion pressures. While instigating slight det adjust your center frequency in real time until you assertain where it is loudest, this will be your center frequency for that given load and RPM. Having done this I would recommend setting a bandpass of approx .3 to .4 to allow for variations with RPM and load. To be honest I myself rarely if ever adjust my own Kmon from a center of 6Khz with a bandpass of .5, at that I never miss a ping.

-----

this instructoin set is more for your newb ^^^ someone who cannot interpret the data they are reading, that said inducing a small amount of knock at at conservative loads will do no damage. The best way to do it is in a high gear low and low rpm before any real boost comes in.

Ive been playing with a lot of late model twin turbo BMW's lately (developing flash tunes etc) and the K-mon has paid for it self tenfold.... these things run mid to high 13 AFR's on full boost making well over 200rwkw whichs means they are always close to the threshhold.

this instructoin set is more for your newb ^^^ someone who cannot interpret the data they are reading, that said inducing a small amount of knock at at conservative loads will do no damage. The best way to do it is in a high gear low and low rpm before any real boost comes in.

Ive been playing with a lot of late model twin turbo BMW's lately (developing flash tunes etc) and the K-mon has paid for it self tenfold.... these things run mid to high 13 AFR's on full boost making well over 200rwkw whichs means they are always close to the threshhold.

so i should induce detonation at low rpm, then tune the frequency till it reads really high knock levels?

did you see my screen shot? does that look like a normal power run to you?

this instructoin set is more for your newb ^^^ someone who cannot interpret the data they are reading, that said inducing a small amount of knock at at conservative loads will do no damage. The best way to do it is in a high gear low and low rpm before any real boost comes in.

Ive been playing with a lot of late model twin turbo BMW's lately (developing flash tunes etc) and the K-mon has paid for it self tenfold.... these things run mid to high 13 AFR's on full boost making well over 200rwkw whichs means they are always close to the threshhold.

forgot to ask, what kind of knock readouts are you getting from those BMW engines? i would imagine it would be quiet as a mouse.

ahh Trent, i see you have spoken to Andrew at Southern BM :)

crazy engines aren't they! My dad has a 335i, killer car... just gotta tempt him into some mods :sick:

That's the response i want, i want the BM twin turbo engine response... not sure if that's obtainable with the humble NEO RB25

ahh Trent, i see you have spoken to Andrew at Southern BM :D

crazy engines aren't they! My dad has a 335i, killer car... just gotta tempt him into some mods :blink:

That's the response i want, i want the BM twin turbo engine response... not sure if that's obtainable with the humble NEO RB25

response is wild i will post up one of the graphs in another thread, we have had about 5 bimmers through lately, some older 323's with after market turbos etc... Andrew is the man though, we are doing a step by step build up with one of his customers with a 335i its coming along nicely.

thank you sincerly for the recommendation.

Edited by URAS

you're welcome :D Andrew is like a walking BMW encyclopedia, very into his work.. which is great, what you want :(

i was down at Southern BM, and i don't know how we got talking about it..... oh wait, that's right... we were talking about tuning and what not as i noticed they didn't have a dyno, and he says he usually takes 35's around the corner to a normal rolling dyno. But he said he was getting a few BS claims from people when he tells them how much power he was getting out of these twin turbo engines, and that's when i mentioned, go see Trent, get it on the dynopack and then NO ONE can argue :blink: He was keen right from the get go :D Glad that he found the time to go see you.

Now, is that sort of response obtainable with the NEO RB?

  • 1 year later...
  • 9 months later...

Bit of a thread bump.

Given that it is now a few years on, I wanted to see if the Kmon is still the best choice for aftermarket knock detection?

They have come down in price now given the good Aussie dollar at around $700-$750 delivered so am really considering buying one.

I basically want something easy to use that can also be wired into the Vipec in closed loop so I can have it start pulling timing when high detonation occurs.

So what's the go these days? Still go the Kmon?

But is the Knockblock as good as the Kmon? Also I believe it is more than what the Kmon is worth now due to the good USD-AUD.

I can't really find any proper reviews of the Knockblock. Ideally I would like to see the main differences between the Kmon and the Knockblock so I can choose for myself which one is the better option.

My friend has a Kmon that I have had a look at and he is very happy with it. He's using it with a Vipec aswell.

vipec doesnt support a native knock sensor? or an off the shelf knock sensor?

it must be wired in with a controller box?

Yep. So basically it comes down to a Knockblock or a Kmon. But just wanted to make sure there was nothing else out that I wasn't aware of.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...