Jump to content
SAU Community

Boostworks


Adz2332
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just need a bit of advice and to see what you guys would do.

I have a GTST series 2 R33.

I was having trouble with the car showing high knock levels on my power fc around Jan this year. So i took it into boostworks and got it tuned. Cant remember what it cost off the top off my head.

It then kept knocking so a few months later i took it back in and they fiddeled around with it again and charged me $50.

Now the knock is gone but since the last tune up im now getting terriable fuel econmy. I was getting 400km to a tank, mayb a bit more. Now im struggling to get 350km... I dunno whether im now being to picky but im not to happy....

What would you do? Is that just the way it goes or what?

And i dont really want to keep annoying shawn....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adam, They may have needed to dump some fuel in to stop it from knocking, or at least to make it a little safer, either that or you may need a new 02 sensor! Mine goes thru the juice as well, I would assume you should get more than 350 out of a tank, but don't expect to get too much as these sorta cars come at an expense!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heres an idea....ring shuan and ask him?

edit/ u should get around 10L/100km

Dunno about that... on the open road you will. In the city I average around 13L/100 and the worst I get is about 15L/100, and my car is still pretty standard.

My last fill was 11.5L/100 with about 300 km of it in the country.

Still I'm pretty happy with that as friends with Gen3 V8's are lucky to get 20L/100 :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3lt with mods and i get that with conservative driving easy. Not city centre or peak traffic, but everywhere else (all the time) i do.

how can u doubt what i get even though u dont know me or have seen my car....? Im the one who drives and fills the tank

If i booted it id probably suck more fuel than u, but id be gone from the servo before u got there :D

Edited by Bl4cK32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

completely off topic but,

that red VL with boostworx hollographics all over it...is that owned by one of the guys who works there? Ive seen that thing punch it before and, wholly crap....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going somewhere else isn't going to magically solve the problem. It looks like Shaun knew what he was doing and did solve the problem whilst charging almost nothing!

My suggestion is that he has FIXED the knock problem which may have been masking another problem that affects fuel economy.

Your engine was obviously running quite lean (hence the knocking), which will also give you more power and use less fuel (because running lean means you are using more air and less fuel than if it was running rich).

So all he has done is make your AFR's safe (like it should have been before), so rather than blaming that for your poor fuel economy, look for another problem elsewhere.

I'd go with the recommendation to check/change your O2 sensor, check tire pressures, ignition timing, Air filter (every little bit helps), intake temps and anything else you can think of that may affect fuel economy.

You should have an AFR graph from your last dyno which should help to see where the problem lies. A good looking AFR might still mean there are sensors not working 100% correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

definition speak to Shaun again

He is very helpful and reasonable

IF it's his previous job which causing the issue, he should fix it for free. I can't see this as annoying, u are the one who being annoyed by second quality job

Link to comment
Share on other sites

completely off topic but,

that red VL with boostworx hollographics all over it...is that owned by one of the guys who works there? Ive seen that thing punch it before and, wholly crap....

Nope he doesn't work there. It still hasn't been pushed hard yet as its had a few issues initially with oiling then the bottom end let go and now its running a std bottom end. Unsure when it will have another tough bottom end slipped in there and pushed up over its previous best of ~300rwkw. Its definitely got some potential.

-----------

Adz,

Throw some nulon fuel system cleaner through it (believe it or not it does work when used every 5-10,000km's or so), check the o2 sensor is swinging once the car is warm and your cruising at a steady speed, if its not check o2 feedback has been turned back on after tuning.

----

As with bl4ck32 I was getting from mid 10's to flat 11l/100km's when tuned up from the rb30det driving around with a bit of a lead foot as it loves to lunge off the line with very little throttle input.

BUT saying that our motors are essentially identical; same headwork by the same people at the same time, same bottom end at the same time same people etc etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.3si.org/threads/crusty-white-balls-on-spark-plugs.666041/ If you see little bits of aluminum on the plugs that's a detonation sign. They don't need to melt for there to be a problem. Coil harnesses disintegrating is normal. Welcome to owning these cars. A new one will last decades done right. Run a compression test and see if they're all ok. If so just keep running it.
    • I hear you! Been thinking about this a lot actually and I fully agree. Been wanting to get a second car that my partner can drive as well. But if I'm spending money on a car it has to be something that is fun to drive. And I already have a big old boosted boat so want something light and nimble. Pretty high on my list is the Honda S660. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_S660 Modern Honda so hopefully reliable, small, light-weight, high-ish revving 6 speed manual. Rear wheel drive. They are slow but apparently heaps of fun. And Jen loves the look of them. We see them every now and then around here. Main concern is that it's tiny and I might not fit.
    • You can be fully serviced Neo heads for $3000 online, so don’t think i will quite get $5000 for it. I would probably end up just keeping the head for a worst case scenario down the line, best case is i have a new head to upgrade if something happens to the current one in the future, as i imagine these will get harder and harder to find
    • Well, the key thing is still your budget (and time, but you've said you don't have much), and the fact you are happy with the existing 300kw for now. If I were you I'd buy the 5k engine, sell the head (probably for 5k these days as its a 25 NEO), swap your head onto it and send it.  Then, as funds allow, collect parts to rebuild your now spare bottom end properly.
    • Alot of people don’t let others test drive the car, so wasnt a hige alarm bell to me
×
×
  • Create New...