Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Taken from s2ki.com forums. (Yes, there are Honda pictures in here)

*disclaimer* I take no responsibility if you mess up!

I wanted a vented hood for three reasons;

1. To let heat (from header, engine, & radiator) escape from engine bay

2. To get cooler air into intake

3. To use the low pressure area above the hood to help extract air from under the front of the car thereby increasing velocity under the splitter and floor of the nose which should increase downforce.

Why not buy a carbon fiber vented hood? The affordable knock-off carbon hoods are heavier and less stiff than the stock aluminum hood. I believe the stock hood weighs 14 pounds. The high quality "authentic" hoods (cwest, mugen etc...) cost a bundle and still need to be painted unless you are going for the carbon look. Some if not all composite hoods require hood pins for high speed use. Oh yeah, and I'm cheap. I planned on venting both sides but ran out of time and decided I like the look of just one side. Still debating.

Here's my solution:

1Pro_Autosports_Vented_Hood_1.jpg

How to build your own:

Please use appropriate safety equipment and don't screw up.

Yes, you are about to cut holes in a perfectly good hood so be prepared.

Remove the hood and the hood liner and support it upside down on some padded saw horses.

Make templates by laying paper over each support hole you plan to cut and trace the edge (use the pencil rubbing technique). Use the templates to cut out some perforated aluminum (clean and paint the both sides of the aluminum). http://www.mcmaster.com/

2Perforated_Sheet.jpg

Use a 3/8" spacer against the hood support edges to draw the hole shape. I left a 3/8" lip for mounting purposes.

Using a UniBit, drill a hole in each corner.

3Hood_Prep_1.jpg

Using an air saw, cut out the shape from the under side - leave a small gap to finish off with sanding.

Use a sanding drum on a die grinder to smooth to shape. I tried using a sandpaper wheel on an angle grinder but it gets too hot and the paints starts to peel back.

4Hood_Saw.jpg

Once the shape is close, flip the hood over and apply masking tape on the top side all around the new openings.

Use wet dry sandpaper to smooth the cut and feather the paint. The masking tape is there so if you slip with the sandpaper, you won't scratch up your hood.

5Pro_Autosports_Vented_Hood_2.jpg

Lay 3M double stick tape used for moldings/body work on your 3/8" lip and trim with a razor to fit just inside the cut out (find it at automotive body shops).

Use a fine paint brush and carefully paint the exposed edge with factory touch up paint.

Install perforated aluminum and your done. I used some small sheet metal clips to hold the perforated aluminum in place just in case the double stick tape failed due to engine heat but I ran a full track day without them and everything was fine.

6Pro_Autosports_Hood_Vent_11.jpg

7Pro_Autosports_Hood_Vent_12.jpg

Edited by 403_r32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177820-diy-the-hood-hack/
Share on other sites

that looks tough as, would look way better with bost sides done but then agian may be too busy, ohh btw if your in melb and ever need any geniune parts for your s2000 pm me, i work in spare parts at a Honda dealer, i dont mind helping out a fellow member, even if oyur not in melb and think your getting ripped pm me ill let you know.

cheers

jarrod

Well, I guess you'd really have to have steady hands if you dont want to respray the bonnet, nevertheless make a mistake! Getting a straight cut is probably the most difficult part. Sanding/feathering down the edges may be a bit tedious, but as long as you take off a fairly even amount and the edge retains an even bevel, the touch up paint would suffice.

The s2k hood was done as I said, just touched up around the edges, and as far as I'm concerned it looks pretty damn good :P As long as you have a straight cut to begin with, and have it all masked off properly there shouldnt be any problems!

Getting more air to run around the iron torpedo of a block will always help lower temperatures. Every little thing helps.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...