Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy; The Hood Hack.

403_r32

By 403_r32,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

403_r32 Apprentice

403_r32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Taken from s2ki.com forums. (Yes, there are Honda pictures in here)

*disclaimer* I take no responsibility if you mess up!

I wanted a vented hood for three reasons;

1. To let heat (from header, engine, & radiator) escape from engine bay

2. To get cooler air into intake

3. To use the low pressure area above the hood to help extract air from under the front of the car thereby increasing velocity under the splitter and floor of the nose which should increase downforce.

Why not buy a carbon fiber vented hood? The affordable knock-off carbon hoods are heavier and less stiff than the stock aluminum hood. I believe the stock hood weighs 14 pounds. The high quality "authentic" hoods (cwest, mugen etc...) cost a bundle and still need to be painted unless you are going for the carbon look. Some if not all composite hoods require hood pins for high speed use. Oh yeah, and I'm cheap. I planned on venting both sides but ran out of time and decided I like the look of just one side. Still debating.

Here's my solution:

1Pro_Autosports_Vented_Hood_1.jpg

How to build your own:

Please use appropriate safety equipment and don't screw up.

Yes, you are about to cut holes in a perfectly good hood so be prepared.

Remove the hood and the hood liner and support it upside down on some padded saw horses.

Make templates by laying paper over each support hole you plan to cut and trace the edge (use the pencil rubbing technique). Use the templates to cut out some perforated aluminum (clean and paint the both sides of the aluminum). http://www.mcmaster.com/

2Perforated_Sheet.jpg

Use a 3/8" spacer against the hood support edges to draw the hole shape. I left a 3/8" lip for mounting purposes.

Using a UniBit, drill a hole in each corner.

3Hood_Prep_1.jpg

Using an air saw, cut out the shape from the under side - leave a small gap to finish off with sanding.

Use a sanding drum on a die grinder to smooth to shape. I tried using a sandpaper wheel on an angle grinder but it gets too hot and the paints starts to peel back.

4Hood_Saw.jpg

Once the shape is close, flip the hood over and apply masking tape on the top side all around the new openings.

Use wet dry sandpaper to smooth the cut and feather the paint. The masking tape is there so if you slip with the sandpaper, you won't scratch up your hood.

5Pro_Autosports_Vented_Hood_2.jpg

Lay 3M double stick tape used for moldings/body work on your 3/8" lip and trim with a razor to fit just inside the cut out (find it at automotive body shops).

Use a fine paint brush and carefully paint the exposed edge with factory touch up paint.

Install perforated aluminum and your done. I used some small sheet metal clips to hold the perforated aluminum in place just in case the double stick tape failed due to engine heat but I ran a full track day without them and everything was fine.

6Pro_Autosports_Hood_Vent_11.jpg

7Pro_Autosports_Hood_Vent_12.jpg

Edited by 403_r32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177820-diy-the-hood-hack/
Share on other sites
unarmed_skyline Experienced

unarmed_skyline

Posted
Posted

that looks tough as, would look way better with bost sides done but then agian may be too busy, ohh btw if your in melb and ever need any geniune parts for your s2000 pm me, i work in spare parts at a Honda dealer, i dont mind helping out a fellow member, even if oyur not in melb and think your getting ripped pm me ill let you know.

cheers

jarrod

403_r32 Apprentice

403_r32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I guess you'd really have to have steady hands if you dont want to respray the bonnet, nevertheless make a mistake! Getting a straight cut is probably the most difficult part. Sanding/feathering down the edges may be a bit tedious, but as long as you take off a fairly even amount and the edge retains an even bevel, the touch up paint would suffice.

The s2k hood was done as I said, just touched up around the edges, and as far as I'm concerned it looks pretty damn good :P As long as you have a straight cut to begin with, and have it all masked off properly there shouldnt be any problems!

Getting more air to run around the iron torpedo of a block will always help lower temperatures. Every little thing helps.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keeper
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By Keeper · Posted

      Got you mate. Check your email!
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • niZmO_Man
      For Sale 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 GT350 Premium

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      You need to put location and price
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • tridentt150v
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By tridentt150v · Posted

      Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...