Jump to content
SAU Community

1990 R32, Push Or Pull Clutch?

Tomei_33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Tomei_33 Rising Star

Tomei_33

Posted
Posted

I have a R32 GTR and the stock clutch is slipping very badly, so its time for me to change my clutch. I was told that 32 GTRs change from push to pull clutches half way through.. i was also told that it depends on which month the car was made and not which year. Is there somewhere on my car that i can check the date it was made? i can only seem to find the year it was made.. or can i somehow check if it is a push or pull clutch without taking it to the mechanics? thanks for any replies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177857-1990-r32-push-or-pull-clutch/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

man that diagram is way off. no car has a solid line going all the way from pedal to slave. for starters the pedal actuates a ROD which goes into the MASTER. then a line (usually starting solid) goes down to near the slave, then a rubber hose goes the last little bit to the slave. NO GTR has a clutch cable. They are all hydraulic clutches.

Basically you need to stick your head under the drivers side of the clutch and take a look at which way the slave is going. ie is it pushing on the fork from the back, or from the front.

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

?

The operation of a push or pull clutch system outside of the bellhousing is identical. Compression of fluid at the master, pushes the slave cylinder out of its housing.

It is the direction of effort on the clutch fork that is the difference between push and pull.

Push, the slave cylinder is foreward of the clutch fork, pushes it backwards, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork PUSHES on the clutch to operate.

Pull, the slave cyinder is rearward of the clutch fork, pushes it foreward, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork (which is mechanically connected to the clutch ) PULLS the clutch assembly to operate.

Simplest way to check is: If the slave is foreward of the clutch fork, it is push, if it is rearward of the clutch fork, it is pull.

Zennon.. get rid of that confusing incorrect information.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Pull, the slave cyinder is rearward of the clutch fork, pushes it foreward, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork (which is mechanically connected to the clutch ) PULLS the clutch assembly to operate.

Simplest way to check is: If the slave is foreward of the clutch fork, it is push, if it is rearward of the clutch fork, it is pull.

nice to know somone agrees with me. :) and can explain it even better!

yes zennon I have no idea what cars you have been looking at mate, but no pedal is pulling on the master cylinder... and none have a pedal connected to the master cylinder by a cable. like I said above, the easiest way to tell is check which side your slave is on in relation to the clutch fork. :)

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

lol, there is no cable!! :)

ok, in a pull clutch the slave is on the other side of the clutch fork. but it still pushes on the fork, the fork is now doing pulling, instead of pushing. :( push clutch and pull clutch have completely different diaphragms. :)

Tomei_33 Rising Star

Tomei_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im back ~ lol ok i sort of get the idea, just need a better picture or an explantion to zennons pic lol the pic kinda confuses me more hahaha damn >.< can u draw in clutch pedal in the pic too? so i can see where all this is relative to the pedal? and wat does the slave cylinder look like o_O real new at this, as u can tell lol =.="

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

Get on the ground and look at your gearbox, drivers side..

Should see something along the lines of this:

post-16250-1185365158_thumb.jpg

almost the same anyways.. generic pic.

red circle shows the slave cylinder. that is in front of the clutch fork pushing back, this is a push type clutch.

if your slave cylinder is in the yellow circle, pushing forward, it is a pull type clutch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...