Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haha! break down! a toyota motor break down!!! haha that would be a laugh.

They do so.. We've had an 80series landcruiser 4.5ltr break down some years ago. The car had 60,000km's on the clock, towing a boat, a little heater hose bust under the inlet manifold within a few secs the car had overheated and left stranded.

It stuffed the head as it overheated. 4.5k later. :S

---

But yes. so what is Toyota's answer to Nissan's GTR? They have never had an answer. :thumbsup:

They do so.. We've had an 80series landcruiser 4.5ltr break down some years ago. The car had 60,000km's on the clock, towing a boat, a little heater hose bust under the inlet manifold within a few secs the car had overheated and left stranded.

It stuffed the head as it overheated. 4.5k later. :S

---

But yes. so what is Toyota's answer to Nissan's GTR? They have never had an answer. ;)

Toyota is considered to be the most reliable car manufacturer in the world. They sell quality cars at affordable prices. For every Toyota that breaks down, 5 Nissans do.

Toyota is considered to be the most reliable car manufacturer in the world. They sell quality cars at affordable prices. For every Toyota that breaks down, 5 Nissans do.

Interesting... is there any real data to support that?

I always thought it was 5,00000000 to one in toyotas favour.

This thread has real ultimate power ; www.realultimatepower.net

Toyota is considered to be the most reliable car manufacturer in the world. They sell quality cars at affordable prices. For every Toyota that breaks down, 5 Nissans do.

I know.

I was being an ass pointing out that Toyota's break down too.

No offense to you...nor anyone else who uses this figure 206kw.

The figure was made up by manufacturers in Japan in the late 80's

and followed through to the late nineties.

They thought that a KW war would not help the development of the cars...(one thing Holden and Ford here

should have learned from)....and so it was a gentlemen agreement to agree that if any car exceeded 206kw

it would be rated at that.

Everyone knows a GTR KW out of the factory was more like 240KW's odd....

What pisses me off though is some EPA tests conducted use this figure...ie noise DB/REV

Back to the Topic.................................everyone by a gtr this way they grow in popularity

and like the supply and demand curve..(which I have always found it hard to understand)....

the prices will increase............and we will be rich......rich I say...hahahahahahahahah

yeah thats fine but im not arguing that point im sayin that u put a stock r34 gtt on the dyno and youll get what 160rwkw or there abouts where as the trd aurion will do more!

so u can go on about the gentlemens agreement but fact is u have to a base or start point of the arguement still look at the figures they dont lie 206kw at the engine is still 160rwkw.. that being said the aurion will still whoop its ass!

no matter which way u look at it it still doesnt change

cheers..

I was clearly comparing what claimed flywheel figures and dd dyno results show. Very little to do with your petty argument.

Stop being an arse, no need for your comment.

Your warn history shows you are argumentative lately. Whats up?

I was clearly comparing what claimed flywheel figures and dd dyno results show. Very little to do with your petty argument.

Stop being an arse, no need for your comment.

Your warn history shows you are argumentative lately. Whats up?

lol warn history i luv it this crap admins put on the website...

anyways i like to argue with facts plain and simple as that .now i was comparing the r34gtt to the trd aurion seems pretty fair too me..nissan vs toyota

u look at the spec and tell me what u think ...how about that ...?

ohh 1 more thing --- sick of people taking shit too ...hahaha but its a forum so ill put up with it and in exchange people put up with my crap!--- arguing

and i think beer baron has nothing else better to do except have double standards but some of the other admins have them as well..

cheers does that make my warn history go up...?....lol

Edited by infected flow
They do so.. We've had an 80series landcruiser 4.5ltr break down some years ago. The car had 60,000km's on the clock, towing a boat, a little heater hose bust under the inlet manifold within a few secs the car had overheated and left stranded.

It stuffed the head as it overheated. 4.5k later. :S

must be one of the unlucky extremely few.

Never heard of that. probably was becuase it was petrol. buying a petrol 4wd is like buying a mazda roadpacer. slow and horrendous on fuel.

if the heater hose broke, the temp guage would read hot (for a short period of time), so there was a level of warning. what warning is there that 2 out of three commodore v6 coilpacks fail at 38000km conveniantly out of holden's stupidly low 35,000km warranty? hahaha!

or when a v6 commodore is going to throw a rod?

there is a thread on toymods called 'ls1, the new 2j?" there is a lad there who works for a holden dealership who has rebuilt 75 ls1s. in a dealership, you don't see too many v8s, and for that many to need to have full rebuilds, it just goes to show the quality of the motors.

check out Rocco's performance's 2jz rx7 for toyota reliablity; 8 sec unopened 2jz na motor that has been turboed. yet to see any other na motor that can do that with bolt ons.

Its was definitely a freak break down. A heater hose letting go at 60 thou... Must of definitely been a flaw from manufacture.

The problem was it was a long trip so your cruising for hours on end; it only takes a minute or so of overheating at the alloy goes soft.

Manufactures really should incorporate a buzzer. :)

must be one of the unlucky extremely few.

Is "extremely few" one of those opposite slang phrases (like how "bad" was good back in the 80's) for "common enough to kick off a class action lawsuit" that I have yet to hear about?

For your information, a "class action lawsuit" is one where multiple plaintiffs combine their individual complaints into one single suit. That gives these several people the ability to combine resources, to bring stronger legal representation to their cause. Or, in the above case, owners of 3.5 million cars....which of course means that there might be people out there who didn't join in the suit. And that was for North America only.

Edited by scathing
This thread has real ultimate power ; www.realultimatepower.net

Hahahaaahaha, I've seen you post that real ultimate power rubbish before :) Bunch of nerds thinking they're ninjas of the orient hahaha idiots :)

This thread has turned into poop.

It was a vs thread to start with so it was inevitable anyway.

It needs shutting down.

That is all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...