Rebuilding My Rb26

[WHITEBEAST]

Hello all, I have just join your forum in interest of looking for any information on engine rebuilding and working of my recently blown up GTR, I blew a hole in my no.1 piston my RB26. I only bought this car from a dealer about 11 months ago, and have spent that much money on my car it is starting to cripple me slowly (but that is the price of owning a GTR.) I found this car after looking for a Nissan Skyline for around 3 months, I was thinking of buying a R34 GTS-T '99 model. That was until I drove a GTR, I couldn't believe the difference in power it had. And it was cheaper AU$23,000 complianced, registered, 88,000 km, though it was 8-9 years older. Now this car was stock apart from exhaust and air-pods. I also had my mechanic check over it and check the compression which was good, 165 PSI - 170 PSI all the way through. I was also thinking of getting the bores scope tested to make sure I didn’t have to replace a AU$5000 minimum motor but I never did.

After I bought the car I removed the valve from the turbo boost solenoid vacuum line, in turn creating more boost, around 12 PSI (1 BAR) boost. Which all sounds fun and easy to do and nearly doubles your boost from 7 PSI to 12 PSI (makes a difference). But... As I said before I’ve recently blown up my motor, was it because I over boosted it, NO! I’ve heard that the RB26 stock motor is good for 15 pound of boost, so it leaves me to think of possible ways it could of happened;

- Motor finally letting go since it was last driven hard in Japan, or;

- Timing was out and allow motor to ping, or;

- Bad batch of fuel in car (only used expensive high octane fuel).

Either way I am rebuilding my RB26 engine, it is currently at the mechanics having the motor removed, He has given me a price for a good rebuild which includes;

- Forged Racing Piston

- Racing Rods

- Studs

- Bearings

- Crank Collar

- N1 Oil Pump

- Tomei - Sump Baffle Kit

- Metal Gaskets

- Head Reco’d

- Machining & Blue Printing

AU$6000

He has also offered me the equivalent to the HKS twin turbo’s and there AU$1000 cheaper, which are suppose to be capable of 25 PSI of boost. Which means more money on things like intercooler, injectors and most importantly the aftermarket computer, which is just needed for a GTR skyline. He was telling me that he had just put a motor the same together, which recorded a dyno measurement of 350kw@wheels. If anyone has any information on engine rebuilding please post any comments even any Skyline enthusiast comments will be appreciated. Thankyou WHITEBEAST

[arep3]

congrats on getting a GTR. just finished my rebuild. theres still more things that need fixing after the build, so always keep some spare $$$.

the search button if your friend. theres tons of info of rebuilds on this forum. especially in the forced induction section.

checkout the sticky: RB26 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results

good reading. this will help you decide on what works for others.

also read about Derens rebuild. My Restoration

350kw? well maybe... with a shiteload of boost and a few more bolt ons. look at how much power you want to finish with. what will the car be used for? it might not be worth replacing things such as the intercooler. its already pretty good. ive heard of GTRs running 300AWKW+ on stock intercoolers, stock airboxes and stock fuel pumps. like you said, the price of these cars is crippling.

good luck

Cheers, Ron

[700HP-GTR33]

There are many reasons why your piston could have gone.......

It takes a keen eye and some one in the know that could have detected your problem earlier.

88K.....no......could have been 288K.....

But lets not cry over spilt milk.

Over heating-

-due to injector not delivering enough fuel into the chamber(most likely cause for this problem...check your plug to see if the end of it was ok..or was not there...

-due to oil starvation....not enough oil

-due to blockage in some galleries...likely cause..incorrect or old oil

-injector blockage.

Anyway...before you rebuild make sure you know what your going to use it for.

Make sure you know.....how it failed before...addressing the problem.

Then take it to a engine re-builder..who has worked with RB26 motors before..and has many who are happy with the results....with NO RELIABILITY ISSUES...after the re-build.

Edited:change your fuel pump..it could have also caused your problem.

[[200]]

You might be able to make it cheaper if you source your own parts.

There are plenty of good quality well priced parts on this forum, just check out the trader section. Every bit counts when you rebuild a motor.

[TTT]

I'd say it popped because you ran double the boost with no tuning.

[Penfold]

1 bar is about 14 PSI (flicking the restrictor will put it up to that approximately especially if exhaust is done)

Hmm, double boost without any modifications to protect engine is silly (enough can go wrong with a 17 year old car as it is).

Anywhoo $6000 is amazingly cheap for the rebuild/parts I'd have expected about $8000.

Good luck with rebuild also do a bit of research so you understand a bit more about consequences before you touch your car.

Hope it goes well,

Pen

[Yawn]

Find out what pistons and rods your mechanic is using.

Also, might be worth getting an N1 water pump while you're at it.

What turbos was he referring to? HKS equivalents are basically Garrett turbos, but which model? For about 350kw id be guessing the GT2560R -5's which a lot of the members are using, including myself.

It is also definitely worth getting aftermarket engine management.

[700HP-GTR33]

1 bar is about 14 PSI (flicking the restrictor will put it up to that approximately especially if exhaust is done)

Hmm, double boost without any modifications to protect engine is silly (enough can go wrong with a 17 year old car as it is).

Anywhoo $6000 is amazingly cheap for the rebuild/parts I'd have expected about $8000.

Good luck with rebuild also do a bit of research so you understand a bit more about consequences before you touch your car.

Hope it goes well,

Pen

Are the parts and labour listed at $6000..which includes....removing...and re-fitting of motor?

You may also want to get some new turbo's while the motor is out.

$3000Approx...which will include new gaskets,copper washers etc.

After the rebuild....a tune is required...so a Apexi Power FC+boost controller is required so you can control the boost.

$2000.....which will include a PFC+AVCR+ tune.

You will need a oil sump baffle...and some oil control items..like restrictors etc..there is a sticky here(SYDNEY KID) I believe.

$1000

There has also been no mention..of new belts/bolts/hoses/seals etc...if you are going to build it right..replace every hose/belt/seal and bolt.OH..and new water pump...Nismo..as mentioned.

$1000 approx..depending on how fussy you are.

A radiater flush and test....a good oil cooler...a catch can......a new fuel pump(NISMO).

$1500..approx..includes fitting of oil cooler , fuel pump and catch can.

Oh..might want a big fat wallet...cause in the end...it will cost you more.

[WHITEBEAST]

Thanks all for your comments, regarding this rebuild.

I’m working fulltime so it is hard to find time for information research.

In regards to Ron’s question “what I will be using my car for”.

It’s just my greatest toy. I use it for trips and daily driving since I have owned it, But the main objective is to be able to take it around Winton Raceway for a few laps (It should be able to do this now). I like to drive it hard because that is what the RB26 was built for, not looking forward to running the motor in.

In regards to other questions, I can’t remember the name of the turbos that he told me, but I know there twins, equivalent to the HKS twins, capable of 25 PSI, around $2400 and were made in Australia. (I will post more information about them at the end of this week).

The pistons type were forged pistons, a little less quality and heavier than those of the CP Pistons (I will post more information about them at the end of this week).

The $6000 price was just for parts mentioned, labour was at least another $1000

As for doing water pump, sounds like a good idea. I’ll have a talk to the mechanic about it. I have always thought the oil-cooler set was a good idea, But was told it was of little value unless your track driving (racing) or drags. I was going to spend the extra cash on PFC, high quality coils, and injectors, and maybe a new think intercooler. Oh yeah and he priced me a new cushioned button clutch for $1200

Any ideas on what sort of clutch I should use?

And does anyone know if should just use the CP pistons which I think he quoted me about $1500 ($250 more) with or without rings, without I think was the price

[WHITEBEAST]

Hi all, anyone recommend a type of clutch for my R32 GTR to go with my rebuild? Was going to get a $1200 cushioned button clutch.

[R31Nismoid]

Who is doing the motor building for you?

Also, no point with sump baffles if you are on a budget.

Circuit GTR's can use the stock sump (running RE55's/350rwkw), then for street you certainly dont need them.

Just overfill 1ltr of oil, combined with the right oil mods (as part of the build) and your laughing

As for motor running in, bed it on the dyno and thats it. Tune it up.

Thats all there is to it really.

[WHITEBEAST]

Who is doing the motor building for you?

Also, no point with sump baffles if you are on a budget.

Circuit GTR's can use the stock sump (running RE55's/350rwkw), then for street you certainly dont need them.

As for motor running in, bed it on the dyno and thats it. Tune it up.

Thats all there is to it really.

EAS Performance is doing the work (Melbourne).

[700HP-GTR33]

Jim Berry for clutch..when installed no lubes to be applied.($1350 Approx delivered)

Single plate

HKS...N1 or SS or 2530?

Equivelant to

Garrett...2860R....-7,-9 and -5 respectively......

Power output with supporting mods...300HP,320HP and 350HP respectively.(Each Turbo)

$2400...(not built here in Australia)

As for what others have said..I would personally recommend a oil cooler....especially if you want to go out on the track.

Good luck with the build..and post up total costs at the end.

[Yawn]

Yeah Jim Berry as mentioned, or you cant go wrong with Exedy either.

I'm using an Exedy Hyper Twin which comes with a lightened flywheel too as part of its one piece design.

Still relatively easy to drive, just takes getting used to the small friction point I guess.

As for the sump baffle you can get a Tomei baffle plate for about $350 i'd say? No harm chucking it in, but not really necessary too as R31Nismoid mentioned.