Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've changed cas before. It's a piece of cake.

Never tried the plastic one though. What cas is that plastic one? Is there something wrong with your old one?

I want to try out a new cas on my car to see if the cas is affecting my timing issue.

I'll help you out if you like - free next weekend.

I've changed cas before. It's a piece of cake.

Never tried the plastic one though. What cas is that plastic one? Is there something wrong with your old one?

I want to try out a new cas on my car to see if the cas is affecting my timing issue.

I'll help you out if you like - free next weekend.

Plastic ones are off the late model 33s and the 34s.Need one to put in these Poncams.Seems like know one wants them so i have to change CAS to fit them.

I changed the CAS on our demo car, being a 40th anniversary edition it uses the R34 plastic cover CAS, but unsure though the difference in changing from a R33 to a R34 version. Have you approached your mechanic?

I was under the impression that you could buy poncams to fit either CAS? Which ones did you get?

I changed the CAS on our demo car, being a 40th anniversary edition it uses the R34 plastic cover CAS, but unsure though the difference in changing from a R33 to a R34 version. Have you approached your mechanic?

I was under the impression that you could buy poncams to fit either CAS? Which ones did you get?

I bought the later model cams but needed the early ones.

So i need the plastic CAS.

They've got different input shaft types. The earlier ones has a half moon shaped key, prone to wear and breaking the later one has a star key looking thing, it's stronger and easier to get in. I'd stick with the cams and just get a later model cas, I think one of the traders had cas's for sale. On the ECU side of things I'm not sure, but I'd say they'd be the same.

Edited by BAMR33
I bought a brand new Genuine Nissan R33 CAS from perfect run in 4 working days for around $500 delivered, hope that helps. (I was quoted $880 locally in Brisbane from the dealer with a 2 week wait from Japan).

A new Tomei series 1 exhaust cam is $470.If i cant get a decent CAS from the wreckers ill guess ill just buy a new cam,and use this late model one as a paper weight.

Hi Dave... I'm stuck in the same situation as you :glare:

I've managed to get my hands on a 34 CAS and I know it physically fits okay with the "series 2" R33 poncams. All I want confirmed is whether the electrical connection from the R34 style CAS will work with an R33 GTS-T powerFC.

In theory I'm thinking it should because the late model R33's (sep97 onwards) would still use the same powerFC (that's only my assumption though). Can any confirm this?

Hi Dave... I'm stuck in the same situation as you :D

I've managed to get my hands on a 34 CAS and I know it physically fits okay with the "series 2" R33 poncams. All I want confirmed is whether the electrical connection from the R34 style CAS will work with an R33 GTS-T powerFC.

In theory I'm thinking it should because the late model R33's (sep97 onwards) would still use the same powerFC (that's only my assumption though). Can any confirm this?

Hey so im not alone lol.Like you say the PFC is the same for series 1&2 R33s so in theory installing the later model CAS into an earlier model should be fine.

Hurry up and do yours and tell us how it goes.

How much and where did you get the later model CAS from???

I'm close to doing mine but with work keeping me so busy lately lets just say it's not going to be done in a hurry.

With the CAS it was just pure luck. A mate of mine who had an R34 sold it and had a CAS spare so he sold it to me. From what I hear though the CAS ain't cheap at all. If I hadn't of got my hands on this one I would have just bought the other cams.

I'll keep you posted anyway if I find out anything else.

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys. I can now confirm that it is possible to fit the later model (R34 style) CAS on a pre Sep '97 build R33. This is of course assuming you made the same mistake as me and bought the "series 2" Tomei Poncams.

The only catch is that a couple of wires have to be switched around on the loom. My tuner sorted this for me and I haven't had a chance to look at the wiring to see what's been swapped but if anyone needs the same help I can certainly pass on the tuner's details.

  • 1 year later...

While on this note, can anyone confirm whether the R32/33's have the same CAS? i understand the plastic is the hitache one and the bare metal is mitsi.

I ask becuase i intermittantly get CAS code in my diagnostics. And i didnt want to startup a new thread :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...