Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've changed cas before. It's a piece of cake.

Never tried the plastic one though. What cas is that plastic one? Is there something wrong with your old one?

I want to try out a new cas on my car to see if the cas is affecting my timing issue.

I'll help you out if you like - free next weekend.

I've changed cas before. It's a piece of cake.

Never tried the plastic one though. What cas is that plastic one? Is there something wrong with your old one?

I want to try out a new cas on my car to see if the cas is affecting my timing issue.

I'll help you out if you like - free next weekend.

Plastic ones are off the late model 33s and the 34s.Need one to put in these Poncams.Seems like know one wants them so i have to change CAS to fit them.

I changed the CAS on our demo car, being a 40th anniversary edition it uses the R34 plastic cover CAS, but unsure though the difference in changing from a R33 to a R34 version. Have you approached your mechanic?

I was under the impression that you could buy poncams to fit either CAS? Which ones did you get?

I changed the CAS on our demo car, being a 40th anniversary edition it uses the R34 plastic cover CAS, but unsure though the difference in changing from a R33 to a R34 version. Have you approached your mechanic?

I was under the impression that you could buy poncams to fit either CAS? Which ones did you get?

I bought the later model cams but needed the early ones.

So i need the plastic CAS.

They've got different input shaft types. The earlier ones has a half moon shaped key, prone to wear and breaking the later one has a star key looking thing, it's stronger and easier to get in. I'd stick with the cams and just get a later model cas, I think one of the traders had cas's for sale. On the ECU side of things I'm not sure, but I'd say they'd be the same.

Edited by BAMR33
I bought a brand new Genuine Nissan R33 CAS from perfect run in 4 working days for around $500 delivered, hope that helps. (I was quoted $880 locally in Brisbane from the dealer with a 2 week wait from Japan).

A new Tomei series 1 exhaust cam is $470.If i cant get a decent CAS from the wreckers ill guess ill just buy a new cam,and use this late model one as a paper weight.

Hi Dave... I'm stuck in the same situation as you :glare:

I've managed to get my hands on a 34 CAS and I know it physically fits okay with the "series 2" R33 poncams. All I want confirmed is whether the electrical connection from the R34 style CAS will work with an R33 GTS-T powerFC.

In theory I'm thinking it should because the late model R33's (sep97 onwards) would still use the same powerFC (that's only my assumption though). Can any confirm this?

Hi Dave... I'm stuck in the same situation as you :D

I've managed to get my hands on a 34 CAS and I know it physically fits okay with the "series 2" R33 poncams. All I want confirmed is whether the electrical connection from the R34 style CAS will work with an R33 GTS-T powerFC.

In theory I'm thinking it should because the late model R33's (sep97 onwards) would still use the same powerFC (that's only my assumption though). Can any confirm this?

Hey so im not alone lol.Like you say the PFC is the same for series 1&2 R33s so in theory installing the later model CAS into an earlier model should be fine.

Hurry up and do yours and tell us how it goes.

How much and where did you get the later model CAS from???

I'm close to doing mine but with work keeping me so busy lately lets just say it's not going to be done in a hurry.

With the CAS it was just pure luck. A mate of mine who had an R34 sold it and had a CAS spare so he sold it to me. From what I hear though the CAS ain't cheap at all. If I hadn't of got my hands on this one I would have just bought the other cams.

I'll keep you posted anyway if I find out anything else.

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys. I can now confirm that it is possible to fit the later model (R34 style) CAS on a pre Sep '97 build R33. This is of course assuming you made the same mistake as me and bought the "series 2" Tomei Poncams.

The only catch is that a couple of wires have to be switched around on the loom. My tuner sorted this for me and I haven't had a chance to look at the wiring to see what's been swapped but if anyone needs the same help I can certainly pass on the tuner's details.

  • 1 year later...

While on this note, can anyone confirm whether the R32/33's have the same CAS? i understand the plastic is the hitache one and the bare metal is mitsi.

I ask becuase i intermittantly get CAS code in my diagnostics. And i didnt want to startup a new thread :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...