Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i just recently got my fmic fitted, and it is kinda defeating the purpose, my intake pipe is straight above my fan and my pipe is getting quite warm, why have a fmic to cool the air, if it is just gonna heat up in the pipe again? is there any type of covering i can put in between my fan and piping to stop the heat transfering from the hot engine air??

or would it make any difference at all?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178597-help-with-intercooler/
Share on other sites

its pretty dumb really, but all the piping kits route the cold pipe past the radiator.

the best way would be to customize your piping, so the hot pipe from the turbo runs past the radiator, an into the drivers side of the cooler.

then your cold pipe can run the standard route from passenger side into the plenum. its a shorter distance, and doesnt pass through any hot areas.

oh ideally yes that would be great, but i dont really have the cash to do that being custom and evrythin, my best bet would have been to go for the same side/ entry/exit cooler, but we live and learn, is this a common problem with us rb25 folk? what are u others doing to prevent heat transfer or are we just dealing with it?

its pretty dumb really, but all the piping kits route the cold pipe past the radiator.

the best way would be to customize your piping, so the hot pipe from the turbo runs past the radiator, an into the drivers side of the cooler.

then your cold pipe can run the standard route from passenger side into the plenum. its a shorter distance, and doesnt pass through any hot areas.

Is it just me or would that make the piping length massive? :yes: Still has to come across the block to go into the plenum as well...

But yeah even though the pipe gets warm the cooling effect you are getting very easily outweighs any problem with making the air a bit warmer around that pipe. To be honest I'd never really thought about that, but I wouldn't worry at all about it. When I first fitted my fmic it came across the same way, but now my piping is modified on the drivers side and doesnt go anywhere near there :blink:

yeh fair call, it just pisses me off to know all that effort to have no change! even though the piping gets hot, would the air inside be same tempreture?i might get a vented bonnet ???remove some of that hot air, i know for a fact the cooler is working becuase its cold before it enters the engine bay then warms up like FARK

yeh true, just want my car to be getting the best out of what mods i put in :yes: might try some heat shielding tape or something! is there a way to test intake tempretures? from intake piping?

You should have asked me about it yesterday :santa:

The heat transfer from pipe to air will be negligible as the air is moving pretty fast and compared to the volume of air passing through, there is very little contact area. As mentioned, you can wrap it. You can also space the bonnet up off the hinges if you're worried about under bonnet temps. As for intake temps, you'd need a thermocouple inserted just before the throttle body with a seperate gauge.

OIC.

so tis will affect all rb25s?

im driving a r34 gtt and i was planning to purchase a FMIC.

so should i just get the intercooler with out the kit and get some custom work done?

any ideas how much to get it done in Perth?

thanks for the info.

and one more thing does this affects the hks type S intercooler kit???

if it does ill just get the intercooler by itself and get some custom piping done.

Edited by lcy
You should have asked me about it yesterday :action-smiley-069:

The heat transfer from pipe to air will be negligible as the air is moving pretty fast and compared to the volume of air passing through, there is very little contact area. As mentioned, you can wrap it. You can also space the bonnet up off the hinges if you're worried about under bonnet temps. As for intake temps, you'd need a thermocouple inserted just before the throttle body with a seperate gauge.

hehe didnt cross my mind dude sorry :(, so u dont think the air in the pipe will heat up due to amount flowing through

Put it this way.... You will not notice any loss of power whilst driving, as bubba said the velocity of air over the pipe is too fast to transfer any significant amount of heat. You will probably get more radiant heat from the engine itself!

If you are really that concerned get some heat wrap.

Ash.

yeh ill see how the heat wrap goes, or get bonnet raised a little, i am planning on getting it repainted and realigned so might as well do it all at the same time :action-smiley-069: be very interesting to see how cold the air actually is though compared to piping temp

i do custom piping and agree that inlet and outlet on the same side of the cooler is soo much simpler and shorter and doesnt require messing with the battery or washer reservoir . only problem is that the front bar mounting point may need to be modified depending on the cooler .

kermit

i do custom piping and agree that inlet and outlet on the same side of the cooler is soo much simpler and shorter and doesnt require messing with the battery or washer reservoir . only problem is that the front bar mounting point may need to be modified depending on the cooler .

kermit

battery is in boot and washer bottle isnt affected

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...