Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here some information about the nismo clutch (got from the nismo catalogue)

SUPER COPPERMIX

Allowable torque of 54 kgfm for dynamic friction (station friction: 81kgfm) Handles an estimated allowable power of 420PS

This is a single clutch system that takes "the ease of use"and "high power handling"forte of COPPERMIX to the next level.. This series also includes a lineup of standard specification products that can handle 380P

*NISMO standard measurements taken by combining high-power specification with the SR20DET engine.

Lightweight flywheel - Equipped with a lightweight flywheel manufactured form special chromoly, the ideal weight has been provided to ensure torque

Aluminum Cover - A cover made from a special aluminum with excellent heat-radiating powers is used

Center Plate with strap Function - To deal with unlikely occurrence of misshift, the center plate features a strap function

SUPER COPPERMIX TWIN

Allowable torque of 84kgfm for dynamic friction (station friction: 143 kgfm) Handles an estimated allowable power of 670PS

The multi-plate clutch takes "the ease of use" and "high power handling"forte of COPPERMIX to the next level

*The numerical values are NISMO standard measurement values measured using a push-type clutch combined with an RB26DETT engine. Evaluation were made based on street and circuit conditions. No quarter-mile evaluation was conducted

Lightweight flywheel - Equipped with a lightweight flywheel manufactured form special chromoly, the ideal weight has been provided to ensure torque

Uses an aluminum cover and lightweight flywheel as a set - A special aluminum cover weigh excellent heat radiation is employed. Also, this is combined as a set with a special lightweight chrome-molybdenum flywheel to achieve the ideal weight setting for the attained torque.

Center Plate with strap Function - To deal with unlikely occurrence of misshift, the center plate features a strap function

Hope it helps :)

Cheers Michael

thanks Michael but does this apply to the clutch kit also ? and 380P is that hp ? and whats 420PS mean. sorry i've got no idea on clutches. thanks

and what would be the difference between a copper mix and a non asbestos clutch ?

Edited by nsm034

thats good to know thanks heaps for your help :) micheal . heres a link to the one i'm looking at

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...tsclutchkit.htm

i'd say copper mix is better because it's dearer. :mellow: would that be a fair asumption ? ha

Hey mate,

Im looking at the same clutch kit, they sell it without the flywheel for about $500 also. Just want to know, what are ppls thoughts on the advantages on a flywheel? Do you guys believe there are any power gains to be made on a dyno? From what I've read there is no dyno difference however on the street, it is like having 101lbs less weight on the street???

Edited by MR R34
I got a nismo twin plate + light flywheel and I hate it. Way too on off for city driving. I'm going to get it replaced by a single - already have nismo slave so should be heaps better for traffic.

Is this a Super Coppermix, or a G-Max or earlier clutch? Just trying to figure out which one you have coz the Super Coppermix is supossed to be the ducks nuts

I got a nismo twin plate + light flywheel and I hate it. Way too on off for city driving. I'm going to get it replaced by a single - already have nismo slave so should be heaps better for traffic.

Let me know if you wanna sell it

It's a Nismo Gmax Item - I'll have to find the version number. It's not too bad while your moving just annoying to drive to and from work and stopping at lights etc. Which is basically 90% of my driving - I'm rebuilding engine at the moment so I'm keen to replace it with a decent single.

Let me know if you wanna sell it
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...