Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah thats what i thought, but i read a thread from the UK aswell as a HPI review and both said you couldnt run it if you have a PFC, which seemed a little weird to me aswell but i thought it wouldnt hurt to check before handing out my hard earned.

well some people in japan also told me they are not compatible. It's possible they are not. remember the Bee-R is basically an interceptor... so yes it does have to work along side the PFC.

only one way to find out though.... but it and tell us what happens.

to be honest they are a bit of a wank. they don't do much except cause some slow damage to your car and make you like like a bit of a tool. unless we are talking for a dedicated drag car, in which case go for it.

b man, the Bee*R rev limiter does not mean fuel cut as vehicle reached certain RPM

the rev limiter is a device used to cut sparks at pre-set condition, so you'll have fuel going through the exhaust valves and igniting in manifold, making flames shoot out of exhaust. there are two conditions that can be chosen, the rev and the launch I think.

yeah thats what i thought, but i read a thread from the UK aswell as a HPI review and both said you couldnt run it if you have a PFC, which seemed a little weird to me aswell but i thought it wouldnt hurt to check before handing out my hard earned.

That's BS, HPI installed a Bee*R rev limiter in their 4 door 32 with a PFC.

Works with my PFC too.

b man, the Bee*R rev limiter does not mean fuel cut as vehicle reached certain RPM

the rev limiter is a device used to cut sparks at pre-set condition, so you'll have fuel going through the exhaust valves and igniting in manifold, making flames shoot out of exhaust. there are two conditions that can be chosen, the rev and the launch I think.

You can also hook a micro switch up to the clutch pedal on the secondary limiter for a very primitive anti-lag set setup. Works though :thumbsup:

Still in two minds about getting one and installing it...

Purely to use at the 1/4

But smashing it off the limiter (BeeR limiter) and launching it wont make my gearbox happy i dont think.

Im not running a cat also but ive hear there will be jack sheit left in your muffler after using these too? (Sorry to hi-jack)

Using bee*r with a pfc allows you to see the fantastic knock numbers produced.

And it does cut fuel ASWELL as spark.

doupt it cuts fuel, otherwise there won't be flames shooting out at all...I don't get how you'll have high knocks as well? I think the Bee*R randomly cuts spark from one of the 6 cylinders? there's only 3 wires going out of the Bee*R unit if I remember correctly... without spark the fuel won't ignite at all, ignition by compresion alone requires extremely high comp ratio. so no combustion for particular cylinder,

knock is more of sporadic combustion, one main flame and smaller pockets of flame as pistons move up...

+ I dun think it has the function of antilag at launch, looks like it with flame shooting, but because its only 1 cylinder and there's no spark at all, antilag is like retarding the timing so that some fuel exits the exhaust from all the cylinders to put more cha cha in the car.

The main damage is probably to the manifold and exhaust turbine. The main function is to eliminate fuel cut at red line, so the vehicle does not loose power as vehicle stays in red line.

Using bee*r with a pfc allows you to see the fantastic knock numbers produced.

And it does cut fuel ASWELL as spark.

my pfc and bee-r never actually gave me any big knock readings, but when you hit the bee-r limiter the engine check light did come on, im assuming its because the pfc is detecting a error in the ignition which is what the bee-r is designed for.

i had mine installed for good launches on boost, but turns out my car is responsive enough not to need it

my pfc and bee-r never actually gave me any big knock readings, but when you hit the bee-r limiter the engine check light did come on, im assuming its because the pfc is detecting a error in the ignition which is what the bee-r is designed for.

i had mine installed for good launches on boost, but turns out my car is responsive enough not to need it

when i had mine both connected i had high knock readings and yer a couple months down the track blew the rings on my motor :)

What it does is confuse the CAS sensor, thus not allowing the PFC or Engine comp to know when to fire the coils.

The knock values only show up when there is a big back fire and it's only the shock of the fire ball in your exhaust that is making that knock.

If you tune the gain on the Bee*R down to a reasonably level, it doesn't really sound any different to your normal fuel cut limiter.

I can build about 5 psi at 0 kph with the Bee*R. lift hand brake, depress right foot, stutter stutter, boost up.

It's tops..... but traction is a litle bit of a problem. I'll be hooking up to the clutch before deca.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...