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Will give that ago. Yer will do. How think Should a 32 after market rotor be? I ask as was told if its not the right size might cause problems with the pistons working right

A 32 GTR rotor is 32mm; min thickness would be around 30mm.

Rotor width won't stop the calipers from working, there is more variation in piston extension with worn pads (6mm approx) as compared with new pads.

The pistons simply push out further to make contact with the rotor. You can run the pads down to the backing plates, on a min thickness rotor; and still keep the pistons captive.

Good suggestions from 3Katz, and normally they are quite easy to bleed.

Did you push the pistons all the way back into the caliper to remove as much air/fluid from the calipers before starting?

Obviously the bleed nipples are at the top on both sides?

Silly question, but I've seen people fit Sumitomo's upside down, then go mad trying to bleed a caliper that will always be full of air.

Once 1 piston pops out, compressed air won't work. I found it was necessary to lever the pistons out gently with a pair of levers in the dust boot groove.

If you protect the caliper and pistons well, and the shafts of whatever levers you use; there is nothing wrong with doing this.

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Did you push the pistons all the way back into the caliper to remove as much air/fluid from the calipers before starting?

Obviously the bleed nipples are at the top on both sides?

Silly question, but I've seen people fit Sumitomo's upside down, then go mad trying to bleed a caliper that will always be full of air.

Once 1 piston pops out, compressed air won't work. I found it was necessary to lever the pistons out gently with a pair of levers in the dust boot groove.

If you protect the caliper and pistons well, and the shafts of whatever levers you use; there is nothing wrong with doing this.

Yes, good point once one piston pops out you have to get a little creative, I like to reinstall the removed piston just past the seal and then chock it up with wood, old pads, rag and G clamps - whatever you can fit in there and keep going in that manner untill all pistons are removed. Once the last piston has popped they should be easy to grab hold of and pull out, but as Daleo said if you're fortunate enough to have dust seal grooves to get a lever in then that would be perfectly fine and possibly much easier. Good point with the upside down caliper too! And obviously you must bleed both sides of an opposed piston caliper. Hope it doesn't sound like telling you to suck eggs but it sounds as though you're getting info that's not quite right from somewhere and it can't hurt to have too much help! Good luck, let us know how you go.

Yes, good point once one piston pops out you have to get a little creative, I like to reinstall the removed piston just past the seal and then chock it up with wood, old pads, rag and G clamps - whatever you can fit in there and keep going in that manner untill all pistons are removed. Once the last piston has popped they should be easy to grab hold of and pull out, but as Daleo said if you're fortunate enough to have dust seal grooves to get a lever in then that would be perfectly fine and possibly much easier. Good point with the upside down caliper too! And obviously you must bleed both sides of an opposed piston caliper. Hope it doesn't sound like telling you to suck eggs but it sounds as though you're getting info that's not quite right from somewhere and it can't hurt to have too much help! Good luck, let us know how you go.

These actually only have the one bleed point, but the internal porting ensure the air from both sides rises to the bleed point.

Best of luck, it's easy to miss the simple things sometimes, and the brake "specialist" doesn't sound like much help either...

  • 2 years later...

Hey i've got a s1 and i'm keen to do the r33 upgrade. I have the stock 16inch rims and i was wondering if this upgrade will fit behind em.

Cheers

Soz i just found out the answer formyself. Google.

Edited by jko_one

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