Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just bought some SSR Professor SP1 rims + tyres and I want to respray the center piece (spokes) a gloss black instead of the silver it is currently.

I can see it just has bolts laced around the outside of the rim that bolt it in. I would need a special star shaped alan key to remove them but what im wondering is ..... is it as simple as unbolting and bolting back in once painted?

Do I have to consider anything such as torque or tightening order? If so, help? :D

Ta.

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181052-3-piece-wheel-dis-assembly/
Share on other sites

well yes, yes you do. Just like anything you will need to tighten them in a star sort of pattern.. N,S E,W, NE, SW, NW, SE etc till they are all done up and you will need to set them to the right torque. Also if you take the bolts out you would probably need to replace them as alot of high strengh things like that need replacing once removed as it caused a very larger stress on them. Call the manufacturer and ask for their price.... or... sticky tape mate.

Find a good wheel repair place. They will be able to do it for you. Or at least give you some advice.

Disassembly you can probably do your self, but reassembly will require resealing and balancing of the rim. If you separate them yourself then you should also index all the pieces so they go back in the same orientation.

my advice is if you can do what you want to do without seperating (ie masking off areas) then do that. I've seen so many people that have split up 3 piece rims only to have a bastard of a time as once re-assembled they did not seal properly anymore and took a lot of farking around to make them good again.

i took my old jap 16" apart to respray the centres black again. wasnt too dificult getting them apart, torture putting them back together again. id say get them pro done or mask em off especially when theyre Professors. dont want to bugger up those babies!!

hello!! i used to work at a tyre and wheel joint in melbourne and it really isnt that hard we used to do it all the time.it really is as simple as pulling them appart stripping off the old paint with paint stripper then undercoating and painting.putting them back together is quite easy but they should be torqued tho n thats easy to do with a torque rench and you can pick those up for around 60bucks then add in the paint and the stripper and it shouldnt cost more than 120.just remember you have all the time in the world so take your time n itll be fine not to metion much more rewarding.good luck...peace

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...