Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no way can i see anything there is just too much shit in teh way and doesnt look very easy to pull it all off.

il go have a look at that exhaust number but in the mean time the actuator has a stamp on it that says 242x02 in black writing and its stamped ASN79 or somthn

4513 pretty sure. the 4, 5 and 3 is a definate confirmation but the 1 sort of looks like a V not sure, thats teh best angle i can get.

45v3.jpg

really looks like a V but not sure.. so i guess if it was that makes it a 45V3 which yeh is off a rb25, but there is a 45V1, 45V2 as well isnt there? whats the dif between them

Edited by YEHBOI

on what engine?

on an RB25.. yes.. it's too much.

on a smaller rb20 it should be just about as much as you'd want to put through a ceramic exhaust wheeled turbo.

all the pics you've posted have had 20V seca in the name so you could be putting this on a 4age in which case, I've seen people put 17+ through that turbo on those engines.

the RB25 is 500cc larger in capacity.

it can push out x amount more air so to speak.

so people say that the max safe boost setting for a stock R33 gtst is about 10-12psi.

and on a car that is 500cc smaller in capacity, it can handle more boost to put the same amount of strain on the turbo as it does on a lower boost setting when on the RB25.

Also, the RB20 has lower compression than the RB25 which also means more PSI to bring the power/heat to the same levels.

f*k that was a messy post.

Edited by GTST
its on my R32 GTST - RB20.

why the psi differences? is that due to the fact a RB25 puts out alot more exhaust heat than the RB20?

At 10PSi on a 2.5Litre, compared to a 2L, you're putting through more air. Which means turbo spins faster, which means more heat in the turbo.

the RB25 is 500cc larger in capacity.

it can push out x amount more air so to speak.

so people say that the max safe boost setting for a stock R33 gtst is about 10-12psi.

and on a car that is 500cc smaller in capacity, it can handle more boost to put the same amount of strain on the turbo as it does on a lower boost setting when on the RB25.

Also, the RB20 has lower compression than the RB25 which also means more PSI to bring the power/heat to the same levels.

f*k that was a messy post.

Well said. :/

Makes sense when you say it that way.

Thanks,

Abu

At 10PSi on a 2.5Litre, compared to a 2L, you're putting through more air. Which means turbo spins faster, which means more heat in the turbo.

which also means more power but that's a different point.

on one of my RB20's I bolted an RB25 turbo to, I had the usual mods except FMIC.

with the exhaust and filter being free flowing, and no boost control, the stock car would boost to 11psi. (stock is 10)

Once the RB25 turbo went on and I used a boost controller to bring it to 11 psi (I used the stock actuator instead of the rb20 one so it had 6psi stock), I put it on a dyno and it made 153rwkw.

I think a stock R32 makes around 110rwkw.

an RB25 with stock turbo at 10psi (if it isn't missing and spluttering like a shitbox) will have around the 170rwkw.

an RB20 with stock turbo at stock 10psi but with intake and exhaust mods will have around 130rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What an awesome idea to fit the facelift Lamborghini Diablo headlights. They are a perfect fit!
    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...