Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR Vs S15 Jap Spec Vs R34 GTT  

183 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

well I think the GTR is the 'best' car, but for what you want, and with your budget I think the 34GTT offers the best value. They are still fun to drive. easy to get 250-300rwkw without it becoming undrivable and much cheaper to look after. Unless you can afford more than $10K a year just in running costs don't get the GTR. S15 is very nice too but more expensive than the 34 and a bit less practical. a well set up GTT is a nice car.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

All very nice cars and Ill doubt youl'd be dissapointed with any of them but in my opinion the R32 GTR is a very clear winner. As you said it will only be a weekend driven car and you want something that stands out. R32 GTR also has so much historical value...first GTR...banned from bathurst...and the list goes on and on.If you want a race bred car and your willing to maintain it...buy a GTR!!

The simple answer is to drive them all and decide for yourself.

But a 15 minute test-drive is not enough to tell you about the car, especially when sellers aren't willing for you test the car's limits in handling and speed.

Guest B34ST GTR
34 gt is a heap of shit

S15 jus pure sex

r32 gtr if you want some power

This comment will only be apreciated in the 'hot fours' magazine show pony.

GTR is unquestionably the pick of the litter....but i never considered running costs and maintainance, when buying, as the impulse part of the brain will never allow you to be rational when choosing......

my missus uses the GTR daily and travels 15km a day to and fro work then maybe a blast to a mates 3-4 times a week, maybe the odd cruise, and i shit you not i can spend from $400-$700 a month on fuel!!

F A C T.

plus you dont get many mods fitted under $1000

Its a weekend car then go for the GTR, its not going to be run daily so fuel price, maintence etc wont be as much an issue bcos its not run as much.

I drive a R32 daily and keeping it reguarly serviced and maintained shouldnt have any issues with the car. $400-$700/month easy if you got you foot pressed hard on the accel pedal. Normal driving and odd few hit's no way that much.

GTR is alot older and issues with parts deterioting etc and cost of repair can be off putting to people choosing cars, but in the end are these things going to worry you n put you off in buying a car that has alot more pedigree n background??

There are well maintained R32's out there, just take time to find one.

What are you going to enjoy more to drive????

i would say...

ok i just got my r34 gtt just around 2 months. i am not bias wit my decision. (read above all voted 32gtr all have either a 32 gtst or gtr....)

b4 tat i was having the same problems too... deciding which car to buy...

like every one says..

Power = GTR no matter 32 , 33, 34 all gives u good power. good for weekends. long term = old + higher maintenances. fast fast fast. drove my lecturer's gtr hahaha he caught me searching for cars in his class (very very cool dude!) told me he drives a 32gtr too.

s15 = newer + looks wicked + good interior but small cabin.my head touched the roof ( I AM A SHORT ASIAN DUDE!) power wise abit low. diff to extract power from it. long term = lower maintenances. the car looks nice but it seems like a boys toy for younger ages.

r34 gtt = in the middle of both. interior is still consider as not bad, looks = new aswell. power = easier to extract than sr20. heavier but bigger cabin. more towards an adult kind of car. (not my opinion, my gfs lol) comfy when i drove the car.

i have ask mechanics aswell on all this 3 cars. driven all three. all got its pros n cons as everyone would say. petrol consumption = depends on the driver.... heavy foot = high petrol cost. its up to u to decide which car to buy. think long run (unless u wan to sell it after a year or so) or until u can afford a r34 gtr?

my choice? i really don know. was a huge fan of s15 but bought a gtt. why ? i got no idea...

i felt a connection between the car. end story a good condition overall car was my choice!

'power = easier to extract than sr20'

sorry but this is crap. The S15 SR20 has a much better 'more durable' turbo than GTT and with similar mods will out perform the gtt in all driving situations.

I used to own a japspec S15 and was making 210RWKW with just exhaust, PFC, boost (17-18psi), IC,fuel pump. injectors. my brother owned a GTT and he struggled to get this sort of power out of the standard turbo (he has recently sold his gtt and bought an s15)

So from a pure performance point of view S15 would be a clear second to the GTR.

My order would be

1. GTR (try for a R33 if you can, r32 are getting a bit old and hard to find a good one).

2. S15

3.gtt

'power = easier to extract than sr20'

sorry but this is crap. The S15 SR20 has a much better 'more durable' turbo than GTT and with similar mods will out perform the gtt in all driving situations.

I used to own a japspec S15 and was making 210RWKW with just exhaust, PFC, boost (17-18psi), IC,fuel pump. injectors. my brother owned a GTT and he struggled to get this sort of power out of the standard turbo (he has recently sold his gtt and bought an s15)

So from a pure performance point of view S15 would be a clear second to the GTR.

My order would be

1. GTR (try for a R33 if you can, r32 are getting a bit old and hard to find a good one).

2. S15

3.gtt

Don't know what you're going on about there.. but a

GTT with a slide turbo, stock intercooler, powerfc, exhaust, boost around 15psi will make around 240rwkw.

At the end of the day, it's game over for the S15 once you swap turbos on the GTT.

It is a proven fact that the RB (Race Bread) engines are built stronger (more torque and outright power) than the SR however being a 6 cyl vs 4cyl, the SR would be better internally ballanced for high RPM.

From what i have read and from what i have driven, the R34 GTT is the pick from the S15 however if someone has the $$$ an GTR will be the ultimate.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
×
×
  • Create New...